Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
On the 12th of January our whole party arrived at Bengazi, having
employed on the journey two months and seven days from the time of
our departure from Tripoly. Shortly after our arrival, the heavy
rains commenced, and continued with little interruption, until the
beginning of March, accompanied with constant gales of wind from the
north-east and north-west. The state of the town during this period
may truly be said to have been miserable; the houses being chiefly
put together with mud, were continually giving way, and falling in;
and we were frequently apprized of occurrences of this nature, in
our own immediate neighbourhood, by the shrieks and cries of women,
whose families had been sufferers on some of these occasions.
The streets during part of the time were literally converted into
rivers; the market was without supplies, owing to the impossibility
of driving cattle into the town; and the number of sheep and
goats which perished in the neighbourhood of Bengazi, from the
extreme inclemency of the weather, amounted (we were informed)
to several thousands. For ourselves, we were fortunate in having
one room in our house which was capable of resisting the rain, the
terrace on its roof having been cemented by one of the Beys, who
had occupied it a short time before; and this, we really believe,
was the only room in the town which could be fairly considered
weather-proof. The court-yard round which our apartments were built
(if they may be dignified with so imposing an appellation) assumed
for a long time the appearance of a pond, and a narrow space was
only left here and there on its borders, by which we could pass
from one room to another.
From the state of our own house, which we have already said might
be considered as the best in the town, the condition of other parts
of Bengazi, during the rains, may be in some measure imagined;
although it will scarcely be possible for the inhabitants of
civilized countries, unacquainted with the nature of Arab towns,
to conceive half the wretchedness and the utter want of comfort
which they present on similar occasions.
The houses of Bengazi are built after the usual manner of Arab
buildings, that is to say, with rough and unequally-shaped stones,
put together with mud instead of mortar; they generally consist of a
ground floor only, built round a square court-yard, which is exposed
to the weather, and into which the doors of the chambers open,
which seldom communicate with each other: the court is not paved,
and in houses of more than ordinary consequence, there is sometimes
a well in the centre. The roofs are flat, and are formed of rafters
(chiefly of young pine-trees from the neighbouring forests) over
which are laid mats, and on these there is generally a quantity of
sea-weed, or other vegetable rubbish; over the whole is spread a
thick stratum of mud, which is beat down as hard as Arab laziness
will admit of at the time when the terrace is made[1].
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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