Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
The Bey having been officially apprized of our arrival, and that
we were desirous of paying our respects to him, appointed a day to
receive us; and when the time arrived we proceeded to the castle,
accompanied by Signor Rossoni, the British vice-consul at Bengazi,
and his brother, Mr. Giacomo Rossoni. We found the Bey in a plain
whitewashed room of unimposing dimensions, but cool and tolerably
clean, seated upon cushions spread round a niche which had been
formed in the wall for the purpose. On each side of this recess,
or alcove, were ranged the principal officers of the household, the
chaouses, and several shekhs; other parts of the room were occupied
by slaves and persons of inferior condition. There was much less
ceremony in the court of Bey Halīl than in that of the Bashaw at
Tripoly, and the conversation appeared to have been pretty general
before we entered the apartment in which he received us.
The hum of voices subsided all at once as we made our appearance,
and every person’s eyes seemed determined to exert themselves in
proportion as his tongue was laid under restraint; for the steady
gaze of all present was fixed upon our party as we took up our
stations near the Bey. We found his excellency a good-looking,
well-formed man, who, apparently from inactivity and good living,
had attained to that state of dignified _embonpoint_ at which
persons of inferior consideration in Mahometan countries are
very seldom destined to arrive. A Georgian by birth, Bey Halīl
possessed strongly the Asiatic cast of countenance and features,
and an expression of unassumed and unreserved goodnature gave a
pleasing character to his sharp, black eyes. His reception of our
party was in unison with his appearance; and the formal inclination
of the head, usually made by Mahometans to strangers whom they honour
with their notice, gave place to a hearty English shake of the hand;
while a cordial _Bon giorno! Ti sta bono?_ was substituted for
the grave and ceremonious _salam_, which, whenever it is offered
by the faithful to unbelievers, is almost invariably dictated by
politeness or policy merely.
Near the Bey stood his secretary, Hashi (whose pale and thin
countenance, and weak, inflamed eyes, appeared to testify that his
place was no sinecure); and two of his head chaouses, one a native
of Constantinople, a short, corpulent, sleepy-looking personage;
the other a tall, raw-boned, hard-featured Arab, who had shewn
great bravery and activity in petty wars with the Bedouin tribes,
and whose shattered hand bore testimony to his exploits.
Several persons came in from time to time, and having kissed his
excellency’s hand, and made the appropriate salams, squatted
themselves down in different parts of the room, according to their
rank and station, and began with great attention their survey of
our party.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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