Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
As soon as this visit of ceremony was over, we began to employ our
time, which, on account of the heavy rains, was necessarily passed in
doors, in putting together the materials which we had collected on
our route, in making some arrangements for improving the condition
of our horses, of which they stood much in need, and in preparing
provisions and other necessaries which were required for our journey
to the eastward. In these pursuits we were materially assisted by the
vice-consul and his brother, Mr. Giacomo Rossoni, to both of whom
our thanks are particularly due, as well on these as on many other
occasions. Our time, though we passed it as agreeably as we could,
nevertheless often hung very heavy on our hands; and we soon found
that Bengazi was a residence which we should quit with very little
regret. There is not a single place of public resort or amusement
in any part of this gloomy abode: its inhabitants idle or sleep
away the greater part of their time, without appearing to entertain
the slightest desire of improving their comfortless and miserable
condition, or of enlivening the monotony of their pursuits. Turkish
towns are not in general remarkable for gaiety, and we did not expect
to find theatres or assembly-rooms; but there is usually a good deal
of amusement to be derived from occasional visits to the coffee-shops
and bazaars, and not unfrequently some useful information. These
resources, however, were not afforded us at Bengazi; for there is
nothing of the kind there that we felt an inclination to visit a
second time. Strangers who arrive there may indeed find a shelter
from the weather, in a place well known to Mahometans as the Fundook,
a temporary place of reception and partial accommodation. We once,
and once only, took occasion to visit this place; and on entering
it through the aperture of a broken door, we found ourselves in a
long arched room, in which there was scarcely sufficient light to
show us where to place our feet, a precaution which was nevertheless
highly essential. Here we perceived the remains of a charcoal fire,
which had been kindled on the well-smoked capital of a marble column,
and a greasy Arab stretched close to it on the ground, snoring amid
the folds of his barracan. The building itself was of some antiquity,
though not apparently older than the worst time of the lower empire,
the roof being supported upon small columns of execrable taste, and
the other parts of the building in no better style. The exterior had
undergone some repair from time to time, but no attention whatever
had been paid to the chamber within, not even that of removing the
dirt and filth which was collected there; and the consequence was,
that the level of the floor reached two-thirds of the way up the
columns. We need scarcely add, that whatever attractions this place
may have had for an Arab, it had little allurement for us; and
we should have laid ourselves down, without the least hesitation,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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