Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
The greater part of the town, on our first visits to it, was thickly
overgrown with wild marigolds and camomile, to a height of four
and five feet, and patches of corn were here and there observable
growing equally within the city walls[17]. The solitude of the
place was at the same time unbroken by animals of any description;
if we except a small number of jackals and hyænas, which strayed
down after sunset in search of water, and a few owls and bats which
started out from the ruins as we disturbed them by our near and
unexpected approach. Appeals of this kind are always irresistible;
and the contrast which presented itself between the silence and
desolation which characterized the city of Ptolemeta when we
visited it, and the busy scene which a spectator of its former
wealth and magnificence would have witnessed under the Ptolemies
and the Cæsars, afforded a striking and, we must say, a melancholy
example of the uncertainty of all human greatness.
If the exuberant vegetation we have mentioned appeared to be rather
out of its place, it was not less a source of inconvenience than
regret, for we had the pleasure of being obliged to wade through
it up to our arm-pits in making our way to the different buildings;
and it may readily be imagined that this tiresome operation, after
the heavy rains which fell occasionally at night, was no treat
on a cool cloudy morning. The brushing through a turnip field,
or one of mangel-wurzel, which many of our readers have no doubt
often tried with a double-barrelled gun upon their shoulders,
is nothing to the tramping we have mentioned; for not only our
boots and trowsers were quickly wet through with the heavy drops
which we brushed from their lodgments, but our shirt-sleeves and
jackets, and sometimes even our turbans, were also well soaked on
these occasions. A very different scene presented itself on our
return from Cyrene, when the summer heat had begun to exert its
influence. Not a leaf or a stalk remained of all the impediments we
have alluded to, and the prevailing colour of the place, which we
had left a bright green, had been succeeded by a dusky brown. The
corn had been cut and carried, leaving scarcely any traces of its
having been formerly growing; and the ruins were left exposed, in
all their naked desolation, glaring on the eye of the spectator. We
had now to encounter inconveniences of a very different nature from
those which had originally presented themselves; but although they
were by no means less disagreeable, we had reason to rejoice in the
exchange. No impediment now remained to obstruct our approach to,
or to prevent our view of the buildings, and we were able to trace
the plans of them with much greater ease and accuracy than we could
on the former occasions. Having given a general view of the country
and remains between Bengazi and Ptolemeta, we will now retrace our
steps, and notice a few of the ruins which present themselves in
the route with somewhat more attention to detail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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