Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolisBeechey, Frederick William
History
Proceedings of the expedition to explore the northern coast of Africa, from Tripoly eastward : $b in MDCCCXXI. and MDCCCXXII., comprehending an account of the Greater Syrtis and Cyrenaica; and of the ancient cities composing the pentapolis
Beechey, Frederick William
Sidra, Gulf of (Libya); Tripoli (Libya) -- Antiquities; Tripoli (Libya) -- Discovery and exploration
Among the sand hills which almost surround the village, we found
several imperfect ground plans; and near the beach is the tomb
of a Marábūt, supported by marble columns, which however are of
very trifling dimensions: there also we noticed several fragments
of marble columns, and a considerable quantity of pottery and
glass. Among the sand hills are likewise some remains of Arab baths,
built of stone and cement; and about them are scattered the ruins
of walls and buildings, as though the village had once been there,
but having been deserted was gradually covered with sand.
Our tents at Zelīten were pitched upon the sand hills close to
the tomb of a celebrated Marábūt, called Sidy Abd el Salám,
much respected by all the Mahometan population[2]. The Arabs of our
escort were particularly desirous that we should show some marks
of attention to the remains of this holy personage, by passing
his tomb at a slow and solemn pace, and at a respectful distance;
and though it may be imagined we had no great faith in the sanctity
of this venerated Shekh, and as little in the miracles which were
attributed to him, we complied with their pious request. The tombs
of such Marábūts as have acquired any tolerable celebrity, present
a singular appearance, in the motley collection of votive offerings
and deposits which are displayed both within and without the holy
structures; and bundles of wood and long grass, ploughs, mats, jars,
and shreds of old garments, are seen mingled with rusty firelocks
and pistols, saddles, stirrups, and bridles, and chaplets of beads,
and rubbish of almost every description.
The more useful offerings of vegetables and fruit may be sometimes
observed in the collection[3]; and the appetite of a saint, who has
been dead fifty years, is often revived and miraculously exerted on
these very tempting occasions. A large portion of food very soon
disappears from the board of a living Marábūt, but the heaps
which are consumed by a dead one of any celebrity are perfectly
astonishing to unbelievers.
The credulity of the Arab has, however, no bounds; and it rather,
indeed, appears to increase, in proportion as the marvellous tale
which is related is more inconsistent and extravagant.
Marábūts are allowed the most unlimited freedom of access, from
the palace and presence of the sovereign, to the tent of the meanest
Arab; and their persons are considered as sacred and inviolable,
even after the commission of the most unjustifiable outrages. The
last-mentioned privilege is not confined to the living; for the
tomb of a Marábūt is as inviolable as his person, and affords
a sure sanctuary to the worst of criminals, in defiance of law
and authority[4].
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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