The next morn you rise, to roll on over yet more weary uplands to
Montrejeau, over long miles of sandy heath, a magnified Aldershott, which
during certain summer months is gay, here and there, like Aldershott,
with the tents of an army at play. But in spring the desolation is
utter, and the loneliest grouse-moor, and the boggiest burn, are more
cheerful and varied than the Landes of Lannemezan, and the foul
streamlets which have sawn gorges through the sandy waste.
But all the while, on your right hand, league after league, ever fading
into blue sky behind you, and growing afresh out of blue sky in front,
hangs high in air the white saw of the Pyrenees. High, I say, in air,
for the land slopes, or seems to slope, down from you to the mountain
range, and all their roots are lost in a dim sea of purple haze. But
shut out the snow line above, and you will find that the seeming haze is
none, but really a clear and richly varied distance of hills, and woods,
and towns, which have become invisible from the contrast of their greens,
and greys, and purples, with the glare and dazzle of the spotless snows
of spring.
There they stand, one straight continuous jagged wall, of which no one
point seems higher than another. From the Pic d’Ossau, by the Mont Perdu
and the Maladetta to the Pic de Lart, are peaks past counting—hard clear
white against the hard clear blue, and blazing with keen light beneath
the high southern sun. Each peak carries its little pet cushion of
cloud, hanging motionless a few hundred yards above in the blue sky, a
row of them as far as eye can see. But, ever and anon, as afternoon
draws on, one of those little clouds, seeming tired of waiting at its
post ever since sunrise, loses its temper, boils, swells, settles down on
its own private peak, and explodes in a fierce thunderstorm down its own
private valley, without discomposing in the least its neighbour
cloud-cushions right and left. Faintly the roll of the thunder reaches
the ear. Across some great blackness of cloud and cliff, a tiny spark
darts down. A long wisp of mist sweeps rapidly toward you across the
lowlands, and a momentary brush of cold rain lays the dust. And then the
pageant is played out, and the disturbed peak is left clear again in the
blue sky for the rest of the day, to gather another cloud-cushion when
to-morrow’s sun shall rise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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