We will pass on. We have had enough of horrors. And, beside, we are
longing to hurry onward; for we are nearing the Mediterranean now. There
are small skiffs lying under the dark tower of Agde, another place of
blood, fitly built of black lava blocks, the offspring of the nether pit.
The railway cuts through rolling banks of dark lava; and now, ahead of
us, is the conical lava-hill of Cette, and the mouth of the Canal du
Midi.
* * * * *
There it is, at last. The long line of heavenly blue; and over it, far
away, the white-peaked lateen sails, which we have seen in pictures since
our childhood; and there, close to the rail, beyond the sand-hills,
delicate wavelets are breaking for ever on a yellow beach, each in
exactly the same place as the one which fell before. One glance shows us
children of the Atlantic, that we are on a tideless sea.
There it is,—the sacred sea. The sea of all civilization, and almost all
history, girdled by the fairest countries in the world; set there that
human beings from all its shores might mingle with each other, and become
humane—the sea of Egypt, of Palestine, of Greece, of Italy, of Byzant, of
Marseilles, and this Narbonnaise, ‘more Roman than Rome herself,’ to
which we owe the greater part of our own progress; the sea, too, Algeria
and Carthage, and Cyrene, and fair lands now desolate, surely not to be
desolate for ever;—the sea of civilization. Not only to the Christian,
nor to the classic scholar, but to every man to whom the progress of his
race from barbarism toward humanity is dear, should the Mediterranean Sea
be one of the most august and precious objects on this globe; and the
first sight of it should inspire reverence and delight, as of coming
home—home to a rich inheritance in which he has long believed by hearsay,
but which he sees at last with his own mortal corporal eyes.
Exceedingly beautiful is that first view of the sea from Cette, though
altogether different in character from the views of the Mediterranean
which are common in every gallery of pictures. There is nothing to
remind one of Claude, or Vernet, or Stanfield. No mountain-ranges far
aloft, no cliffs toppling into the water, with convents and bastides
perched on their crags; and seaports, with their land-locked harbours,
and quaint lighthouses, nestling on the brink. That scenery begins on
the other side of the Rhone mouth, and continues, I believe, almost
without interruption, to the shores of Southern Palestine, one girdle of
perpetual beauty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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