A couple of days had passed, and I was crawling up the paved stairs
inaccessible to cart or carriage, which are flatteringly denominated
‘Clovelly-street,’ a landing-net full of shells in one hand, and a couple
of mackerel lines in the other; behind me a sheer descent, roof below
roof; at an angle of 45°, to the pier and bay, 200 feet below, and in
front, another hundred feet above, a green amphitheatre of oak, and ash,
and larch, shutting out all but a narrow slip of sky, across which the
low, soft, formless mist was crawling, opening every instant to show some
gap of intense dark rainy blue, and send down a hot vaporous gleam of
sunshine upon the white cottages, with their grey steaming roofs, and
bright green railings, packed one above another upon the ledges of the
cliff; and on the tall tree-fuchsias and gaudy dahlias in the little
scraps of court-yard, calling the rich faint odour out of the verbenas
and jessamines, and, alas! out of the herring-heads and tails also, as
they lay in the rivulet; and lighting up the wings of the gorgeous
butterflies, almost unknown in our colder eastern climate, which
fluttered from woodland down to garden, and from garden up to woodland,
and seemed to form the connecting link between that swarming hive of
human industry and the deep wild woods in which it was embosomed. So up
I was crawling, to dine off gurnards of my own catching,—excellent fish,
despised by deluded Cockneys, who fancy that because its head is large
and prickly, therefore its flesh is not as firm, and sweet, and white, as
that of any cod who ever gobbled shell-fish,—when down the stair front of
me, greasy as ice from the daily shower, came slipping and staggering, my
friend Claude, armed with camp-stool and portfolio.
‘Where have you been wandering to-day?’ I asked. ‘Have you yet been as
far as the park, which, as I told you, would supply such endless subjects
for your pencil?’
‘Not I. I have been roaming up and down this same “New Road” above us;
and find there materials for a good week’s more work, if I could afford
it. Indeed, it was only to-day, for the first time, that I got as far as
the lodge at the end of it, and then was glad enough to turn back
shuddering at the first glimpse of the flat, dreary moorland beyond,—as
Adam may have turned back into Eden after a peep out of the gates of
Paradise.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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