Owing to this rapid destruction, the rocks of Biarritz are very barren in
sea-beasts and sea-weeds. But there is one remarkable exception, where
the pools worn in a hard limestone are filled with what seem at first
sight beds of china-asters, of all loveliest colours—primrose, sea-green,
dove, purple, crimson, pink, ash-grey. They are all prickly sea-eggs
(presumably the _Echinus lividus_, which is found in similar places in
the west of Ireland), each buried for life in a cup-shaped hole which he
has excavated in the rock, and shut in by an overhanging lip of living
lime—seemingly a Nullipore coralline. What they do there, what they
think of, or what food is brought into their curious grinding-mills by
the Atlantic surges which thunder over them twice a day, who can tell?
However they form, without doubt, the most beautiful object which I have
ever seen in pool or cove.
But the glory of Biarritz, after all, is the moors above, and the view to
be seen therefrom. Under blazing blue skies, tempered by soft dappled
cloud, for ever sliding from the Atlantic and the Asturias mountains, in
a climate soft as milk, and exhilarating withal as wine, one sees far and
wide a panorama which, from its variety as well as its beauty, can never
weary.
To the north, the long sand-line of the Biscayan shore—the bar of the
Adour marked by a cloud of grey spray. Then the dark pine-flats of the
Landes, and the towers of Bayonne rising through rich woods. To the
eastward lies a high country, furred with woods, broken with glens; a
country exactly like Devon, through the heart of which, hidden in such a
gorge as that of Dart or Taw, runs the swift stream of the Nive, draining
the western Pyrenees. And beyond, to the south-east, in early spring,
the Pyrenean snows gleam bright, white clouds above the clouds. As one
turns southward, the mountains break down into brown heather-hills, like
Scottish grouse moors. The two nearest, and seemingly highest, are the
famous Rhune and Bayonette, where lie, to this day, amid the heath and
crags, hundreds of unburied bones. For those great hills, skilfully
fortified by Soult before the passage of the Bidassoa, were stormed, yard
by yard, by Wellington’s army in October 1813. That mighty deed must be
read in the pages of one who saw it with his own eyes, and fought there
with his own noble body, and even nobler spirit. It is not for me to
tell of victories, of which Sir William Napier has already told.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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