Punch, or the London Charivari, Volume 1, CompleteVarious
General
Punch, or the London Charivari, Volume 1, Complete
Various
English wit and humor -- Periodicals
The body-coat is again divided into classes, according to their
application, viz.the drawing-room, the ride, and the field.
The cut of the dress-coat is of paramount importance, that being the
garment which decorates the gentleman at a time when he is naturally
ambitious of going the entire DOrsay. There is great nicety required in
cutting this article of dress, so that it may at one and the same moment
display the figure and waistcoat of the wearer to the utmost advantage.
None but a John oGroats goth would allow it to be imagined that the
buttons and button-holes of this robe were ever intended to be anything
but opposite neighbours, for a contrary conviction would imply the
absence of a cloak in the hall or a cab at the door. We do not intend to
give a Schneiderian dissertation upon garments; we merely wish to trace
outlines; but to those who are anxious for a more intimate acquaintance
with the intricacies and mysteries of the delightful and civilising art
of cutting, we can only say, Vide Stultz.11. Should any gentleman avail
himself of this hint, we should feel obliged if he would mention the
source from whence it was derived, having a small account standing in
that quarter, for tailors have gratitude.
The riding-coat is the connecting link between the DRESS and the rest of
the great family of coats, as one button, and one only of this garment,
may be allowed to be applied to his apparent use.
It is so cut, that the waistcoat pockets may be easy of access. Any
gentleman who has attended races or other sporting meetings must have
found the convenience of this arrangement; for where the course is well
managed, as at Epsom, Ascot, Hampton, &c., by the judicious regulations
of the stewards, the fingers are generally employed in the distribution
of those miniature argentine medallions of her Majesty so particularly
admired by ostlers, correct card-vendors, E.O. table-keepers, Mr. Jerry,
and the toll-takers on the road and the course. The original idea of
these coats was accidentally given by John Day, who was describing, on
Nugees cutting-board, the exact curvature of Tattenham Corner.
The shooting-jacket should be designed after a dovecot or a chest of
drawers; and the great art in rendering this garment perfect, is to make
the coat entirely of pockets, that part which covers the shoulders being
only excepted, from the difficulty of carrying even a cigar-case in that
peculiar situation.
The surtout (not regulation) admits of very little design. It can only
be varied by the length of the skirts, which may be either as long as a
firemans, or as short as Duvernays petticoats. This coat is, in fact,
a cross between the dress and the driving, and may, perhaps, be
described as a Benjamin junior.
Of the Benjamin senior, there are several kindsthe Taglioni, the Pea,
the Monkey, the Box, et sui generis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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