Quaint and Historic Forts of North AmericaHammond, John Martin
History
Quaint and Historic Forts of North America
Hammond, John Martin
Fortification -- North America; Fortification -- United States; Historic buildings -- United States
Only a decade or two ago the Presidio (it still bears its Spanish
appellation) was an isolated military post separated from the
city by several miles of barren, sandy thoroughfares. Now some
of the handsomest homes crown the hill tops about it, and owe
their chief attraction to the glorious views of bay and shore
that they command. To start some fine afternoon toward sunset
from one of these homes and take a drive around the cliffs is an
experience not soon to be forgotten.
A few blocks run brings you to a stone gateway, its posts
topped with eagles; you turn sharply to the right through a
grove of eucalypti, swing round a curve and then you stop the
motor. From the red Macadam roadway upon which you stand, the
hills fall gently in a broad amphitheatre to the barracks and
parade grounds laid out symmetrically along the shore, and
teeming with soldier life. Beyond, the waters of the bay mirror
the azure of the sky--a blue, tinged with green, like those
half-dead turquoises that they sell in the marts of Tunis. The
North Beach hills, thick-studded with the modest homes of the
city’s alien population, gleam white against the Contra Costa
Mountains--verdant in winter, tawny and dry in summer--with the
lumpy silhouette of the Monte Diablo, the Devil’s Mountain,
poking over the shoulder as if it, too, wished a peep at so fair
a prospect.
Across the stretch of intervening water, stern-wheeled river
steamers ply northward to San Pablo Bay; on through the Carquinez
Straits and up the Sacramento River, their silhouettes varied
once in a while by some grim battle-ship or cruiser steaming to
the Navy Yard at Mare Island, headquarters, home and hospital for
all our ships in the Pacific. Anchored in the middle of the bay,
Alcatraz lies terraced with batteries, low, forbidding, while to
the north rise the hills of Marin County bathed in purple shadows
and clustered around the base of Tamalpais. The whole scene is
suffused with the rosy flush of the westering sun that gilds the
islands, warms the greens of the eastern sky, and blushes the
hills with its ardent glances.
One turns from the picture with regret, only to follow on to new
vistas. You wind through groves of evergreens and eucalypti out
into the open meadows, a riot of flowers in springtime, that top
the cliffs above the Golden Gate. The famous straits lie just
below, Fort’s Point antiquated bastions on their hither shore
fronting the white-washed walls of the harbor-light on the Point
Bonita bluffs opposite.
To take up the thread of our historical narrative, the presidio
remained a possession of Spain’s until 1824 when Mexico finally
became free from its mother country and the flag of Mexico took the
place of the banner of Castile and Aragon at the Golden Gate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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