Rajah Brooke : $b the Englishman as ruler of an eastern stateSt. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Rajah Brooke : $b the Englishman as ruler of an eastern state
St. John, Spenser, Sir
James, Rajah of Sarawak, 1803-1868; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- History; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- Kings and rulers -- Biography
In our journeys towards this lofty mountain, Sir Hugh Low and I
passed through a great variety of country. Our first expedition
took us from Abai Bay across a cultivated plain to the interior of
the Tampasuk river, the low land extending for many miles on either
side of the path we followed, and stretching for an indefinite
distance ahead of us. Here the natives ride the water buffaloes,
the oxen, the bulls and cows as they do horses in other countries.
We took up our quarters for the night in the substantial house of
a Bajau chief, an old friend of my fellow traveller, and next day
we started inland, riding for many hours over a slightly undulating
plain, which continued to the foot of the ranges of hills in front.
We occasionally passed pretty villages, shaded by dense clumps of
cocoanut palms and mango trees. The scene was magnificent. When we
reached the first low range the path became stony and very rough,
so that we had to give up our horses and trust to our own feet, and
most enjoyable days they were, as we advanced along the banks of
the Tampasuk, through fertile fields in full cultivation, the only
inconvenience our having so constantly to ford the river. At length
we turned from the stream, climbing a steepish hill to the extensive
village of Kiau, which is built on a sloping buttress of Kina Balu,
about three thousand feet above the level of the sea.
On our next visit to the mountain we started from Gaya Bay, then
across the lake-like Mengkabong river, and after riding over a
well-cultivated plain we climbed to the summit of the first range of
hills, and then followed the ridges towards the mountain. Nothing
could have been finer than the scenery. There was no forest, of
which in Borneo one sometimes gets tired; all the land was either
under cultivation or had been cultivated, ideal spots for coffee
plantations if the soil be suitable. We continued on the high land
until we reached the Tampasuk river, when we followed the same path
as we had taken on our previous journey. The weeks we spent on the
great mountain were weeks of pleasure, and we explored many of its
buttresses, and at length climbed again to its summit. Mr Alfred
Wallace used to say that it was worth the journey to Borneo in order
to eat the fresh fruit of the Durian, but I think the fatigues of the
long voyage would be amply repaid by a visit to this lovely coast and
an excursion to its great mountain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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