Rambles in an Old City: comprising antiquarian, historical, biographical and political associationsMadders, Susan Swain
History
Rambles in an Old City: comprising antiquarian, historical, biographical and political associations
Madders, Susan Swain
Norwich (England)
But we must not leave our sketch of the life in a feudal castle, without
one glance at the feminine employments that served to relieve the
monotonous existence of the isolated dames condemned to comparative
solitude within its walls; nor are we able to discover much, if any,
variety in their occupations. The embroidery frame, and an occasional
spindle and distaff, before the improvements in arts and science had
substituted factories and looms, were almost the only resources allowed
them; but these were inexhaustible, and the many elaborate specimens of
their skill that have survived the casualties of a hundred generations,
bear witness to the indefatigable perseverance with which they were
employed. The garments of the clergy at this period were richly
embroidered, so much so, as to excite the admiration of the pope, and
induce him to issue a bull to the English priests, enjoining them to
procure him vestments equally gorgeous. Many of these were the free-will
offerings of the rich, and the fruits of highborn ladies’ industry.
Fringe-making of gold and silver, worked upon lace without the aid of the
needle, was another species of occupation afforded them, and constituted
the Phrygian work often spoken of by old historians. Cyprian work was a
variety of embroidery, inasmuch as it was a thin, transparent texture
like gauze, named _cyprus_, worked with gold. Cyprus was a term applied
also to black crape, then appropriated exclusively to widows’ mourning;
possibly this might have been the origin of “wearing the cypress.”
Embroidery was not alone confined to ornaments of dress, or even clerical
vestments; hangings for the chambers, and pictures on almost every
possible subject, were produced from the needle.
The tapestry at Bayeux, in Normandy, attributed to Matilda, the queen of
the Conqueror, represents the history of Harold, king of England, and
William of Normandy, from the embassy of the former to Duke William, at
the command of Edward the Confessor, to his final overthrow at Hastings.
The ground of this work is a white linen cloth or canvas, one foot eleven
inches in depth, and two hundred and twelve in length. The figures are
all in their proper colours, of a style not unlike those of japan ware,
having no pretence to symmetry or proportion. It is preserved with great
care in the cathedral dedicated to Thomas à Becket, in Normandy, and is
annually exhibited for eight days, commencing on St. John’s day, and is
called _Duke William’s toilette_.
It is, however, extremely questionable whether it was the work of the
royal lady,—many figures in it would indicate that its manufacture was of
more recent date—be it as it may, it is a wondrous specimen of patient
industry, and valuable for the representation of manners and customs of
the times traced upon it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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