Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870 -- Homes and haunts -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London
Continuing the homeward journey by South-Eastern Railway, the Rambler
will arrive in due course at the station of GREENWICH, eighteen miles
from Gravesend. Here alighting, a short walk eastward, on the south side
of the line—through _London Street_, turning right by end of _Church
Street_—will lead us to the entrance of Greenwich Park. This well-known
place of popular resort was referred to by Dickens in his first
contributions to the _Evening Chronicle_, 1835, which were afterwards
collected under the name of “Sketches by Boz.” The sketch is entitled
“_Greenwich Fair_,” and gives descriptions of the doings in the park at
that festival, as holden aforetime in this locality—
“The principal amusement is to drag young ladies up the steep hill
which leads to the Observatory, and then drag them down again at the
very top of their speed, greatly to the derangement of their curls
and bonnet-caps, and much to the edification of lookers-on from
below.”
From the Park entrance we may now proceed towards the river by _Church
Street_, on the left hand of which, past _London Street_, stands the
Church of St. Alphege, a handsome edifice in classic style. The happy
wedding of _Bella Wilfer_ and _John Rokesmith_, otherwise _Harmon_, here
took place, in the presence of a “gruff and glum old pensioner” from the
neighbouring hospital, with two wooden legs. We may also recall the
circumstance of Mr. and Mrs. Boffin’s attendance, that worthy couple
being hid away near the church organ.
Following the route northward, we may soon reach _King William Street_,
by the river side, in which is situated Quartermaine’s Ship Tavern. This
is the place where the “lovely woman” and her father once dined together
on the occasion of their “innocent elopement.” (See “Our Mutual Friend,”
chapter 8, Book 2.) It may be also remembered as the hotel at which was
celebrated the wedding dinner of _Mr. and Mrs. Rokesmith_ aforesaid,
“dear little Pa” being the honoured guest of that blissful opportunity.
We may here also recollect the dignified bearing of the head waiter—The
Archbishop of Greenwich—“a solemn gentleman in black clothes and a white
cravat, who looked much more like a clergyman than _the_ clergyman, and
seemed to have mounted a great deal higher in the church.”
Leaving GREENWICH, a short ride of twenty minutes (six miles), following
the course of the river, will bring us to the CHARING CROSS TERMINUS, in
central London.
RAMBLE VII
Excursion to Canterbury and Dover
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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