Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the CampagnaForbes, S. Russell
History
Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the Campagna
Forbes, S. Russell
Art -- Rome; Rome (Italy) -- Guidebooks; Rome -- Antiquities
_From the Piazza del Popolo, a sloping, winding road leads up to_ the
favourite promenade of the Romans and Forestieri, who stroll and drive
here every day, and listen to a military band by which the place is
enlivened in the afternoons. _Ascending_, its terraces are
interspersed with fountains and statues, and there is a fine large
bas-relief on the wall opposite the two columnæ rostratæ adorned with
the prows of ships. The name of the hill is derived from the Pincii
family, whose estates were upon it towards the close of the empire. It
was formerly known as the Hill of Gardens, from those of Lucullus,
which passed to Valerius Asiaticus, and were coveted by Messalina. It
abounds in walks and shady nooks, interspersed with fountains and the
busts of Italia's great men. The side farthest from the city
overlooks the Villa Borghese. At the extreme corner is a fragment of
the old wall of Sylla--Muro Torto. From the terrace the scene below,
in the piazza, is quite a study:--beyond is the winding Tiber and its
round fortress of S. Angelo, the roof of the Pantheon, the columns of
Aurelius and Trajan, the Capitol and Milizie Towers, and the Quirinal
Palace; whilst between Monti Mario and the Janiculum is the world's
cathedral, with its vast dome towering high above all: this dome is
best seen at a distance, where the eye can embrace its full
proportions, for immediate proximity dwarfs its immensity.
_In the centre of the grounds is_
THE EGYPTIAN OBELISK,
which has on it the inscription ANTONINUS OSIRIS ORACLE (Utterer of
truth). It was brought by Hadrian from Egypt, and erected by himself
and his wife Sabina to his favourite Antinoüs, in the Varianus Circus,
amidst which ruins, near S. Croce in Gerusalemme, outside the walls,
it was found.
_Passing out of the grounds by the road that runs parallel to the
city, on our left is_
THE FRENCH ACADEMY,
or Villa Medici, _open every day from 8 till 12, and from 3 till
dusk_. The gardens are tastefully laid out, and several fine views may
be obtained from them. The MUSEUM OF CASTS (of statues not in Rome)
will repay a visit.
_Proceeding up the avenue, just beyond, on the left, is the_
CHURCH OF TRINITA DEI MONTI,
erected by Charles VIII. of France. Visitors should attend vespers
here, the nuns singing choral service; it commences half an hour
before Ave Maria. Over the altar of the side-chapel, in entering, is a
beautiful Descent from the Cross, the masterpiece of Daniele da
Volterra.
THE EGYPTIAN OBELISK
was found in the gardens of Sallust, and placed here by Pius VI. in
1789. It is 48 feet high without the pedestal, and is supposed to have
been brought to Rome by Hadrian. It is thought by some to be only a
copy of the original in Egypt. Marcellinus says it stood in the
gardens of Sallust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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