Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the CampagnaForbes, S. Russell
History
Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the Campagna
Forbes, S. Russell
Art -- Rome; Rome (Italy) -- Guidebooks; Rome -- Antiquities
SECOND ROOM.--Group of Mars and Cupid, found in the portico of
Octavia. 7. Theseus and Æthra, by Menelaos. 9. Satyr. 17. Julius
Cæsar. 28. Gallic group, of which the wounded Gaul in the Capitol
Museum formed a part. 41. Juno, the finest head of the goddess known.
43. Pluto carrying off Proserpine.
Towards the Porta Pinciana is the casino containing Guercino's
beautiful fresco of Aurora driving away Night. A beautiful view is to
be had here.
_Leaving the Museum, we pass down the Basilio into the Piazza
Barberini. On the right, up under the trees, are_
THE CHURCH AND CEMETERY OF THE CAPPUCCINI.
In the first chapel on the right in the church is Guido Reni's
beautiful picture of S. Michael, and in the third chapel two pictures
by Domenichino. But the most interesting part, the cemetery, is
beneath the church, though entirely above ground, and lighted by a row
of iron-grated windows without glass. "A corridor runs along beside
these windows, and gives access to three or four vaulted recesses, or
chapels, of considerable breadth and height, the floor of which
consists of consecrated earth from Jerusalem. It is smoothed
decorously over the deceased brethren of the convent, and is kept
quite free from grass or weeds, such as would grow even in these
gloomy recesses if pains were not bestowed to root them up. But as the
cemetery is small, and it is a precious privilege to sleep in holy
ground, the brotherhood are immemorially accustomed, when one of their
number dies, to take the longest-buried skeleton out of the oldest
grave, and lay the new slumberer there instead. Thus each of the good
friars, in his turn, enjoys the luxury of a consecrated bed, attended
with the slight drawback of being forced to get up long before
daybreak, as it were, and make room for another lodger. The
arrangement of the unearthed skeletons is what makes the special
interest of the cemetery. The arched and vaulted walls of the burial
recesses are supported by massive pillars and pilasters made of
thigh-bones and skulls; the whole material of the structure appears to
be of a similar kind, and the knobs and embossed ornaments of this
strange architecture are represented by the joints of the spine, and
the more delicate tracery of the smaller bones of the human frame. The
summits of the arches are adorned with entire skeletons, looking as if
they were wrought most skilfully in bas-relief. There is no
possibility of describing how ugly and grotesque is the effect,
combined with a certain artistic merit, nor how much perverted
ingenuity has been shown in this queer way; nor what a multitude of
dead monks, through how many hundred years, must have contributed
their bony framework to build up these great arches of mortality. On
some of the skulls there are inscriptions, purporting that such a
monk, who formerly made use of that particular head-piece, died on
such a day and year; but vastly the greater number are piled up
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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