Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the CampagnaForbes, S. Russell
History
Rambles in Rome: An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the Campagna
Forbes, S. Russell
Art -- Rome; Rome (Italy) -- Guidebooks; Rome -- Antiquities
The Porta Capena is represented twice in the reliefs of Trajan built
on to the Arch of Constantine. In the days of Tullus Hostilius, B.C.
668, Horatius killed his sister outside this gate. "A tomb of squared
stone was raised for Horatia, on the spot where she fell" (Livy, i.
26).
We now arrive at the river Almo (Marrana), which flows through
THE VALLEY OF THE MUSES,
under the Cœlian Hill, in which is the Fountain of Egeria, whence
flowed the perennial fountain by whose waters Numa caught inspiration
from the lips of his lovable nymph. Juvenal describes the spot in his
description of the parting of Umbricius and himself: "This is the
place where Numa consulted his nocturnal friend the nymph: now the
grove of the sacred font is occupied by the remains of Jews." "In the
valley of Egeria we descended into caves unlike the true." They
strolled from the Porta Capena whilst the waggon was loading. At
length Umbricius says: "The sun is getting low--I must depart; for
long ago the muleteer gave me a hint by cracking his whip."
"Numa was commanded by the nymph Egeria to consecrate that place and
the fields about it to the Muses, where he had often entertained a
free intercourse and communication with them; and that the fountain
which watered that place should be made sacred and hallowed for the
use of the vestal virgins, who were to wash and clean the penetralia
of their sanctuary with those holy waters" (Plutarch).
Livy (i. 21) thus describes it: "There was a grove, in the midst of
which, from a dark cavern, gushed a fountain of flowing water, whither
often, because without witness, Numa went to have an interview with
the goddess, and which grove he consecrated to the muses, that their
councils might be held there with Egeria." The fountain may still be
seen under the Cœlian, over the wall on the left;--there is a
bath-house of the middle ages built over it. It is in the grounds of
the villa of Baron Hoffmann, _to whom application must be made to
visit it_.
_Crossing the_ Marrana, _we take the first turning on the right_, VIA
ANTONINA. _This lane leads to the_
BATHS OF CARACALLA.
_Admission one lira; Sundays free._
A favourite spot of Shelley's--"among the flowery glades and thickets
of odoriferous blossoming trees, which are extended in ever winding
labyrinths upon its immense platforms and dizzy arches suspended in
the air." So the poet wrote of this spot. But now it is all changed:
the hand of the explorer has ruthlessly pulled up the trees, and
scraped the wild flowers and weeds from the ruined walls, exposing
beautiful mosaic pavements, it is true, but which hardly repay for the
loss of nature's verdure.
The magnificent Thermæ of Caracalla display in the clearest and most
complete manner the skeleton of an edifice of this kind--these
glorious ruins standing, as it were, intact before us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account