Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
We stopped at a village to take breakfast, and passed through several
towns on the road, but they afforded nothing worthy of remark. The
country through which our route lay, presented the same aspect as other
parts we had visited. The fields were still covered with weeds, to burn
which the proprietors of the soil were only waiting for dry weather.
This is the only preparation the soil receives prior to sowing it. The
progress of the coach afforded us much amusement, by the fright which it
appeared to occasion to all animated nature in our way. This line of
coaches had been only a short time established, and its whirling along
among people and cattle, had a similar effect that a locomotive has
among the animals and their owners in the wilds of the far West. Nothing
would stand before it. Away went horse and rider, mule and packs, to
secure a safe retreat in the bushes, at the alarming sound of our
approach. Our arrival in the town brought out the whole population, and
the Indians would come round the coach aching with curiosity, their
countenances expressive both of fear and admiration.
Dinner was procured at a town called Zibackchen, and we remained here,
for the want of horses, during the night. Our dining apartment was a
billiard-room, where we sat down to a small table, four in all; our
conductor making one of the number. Our elderly male companion had
evidently seen better days. He was much soured at the appearance of the
viands placed before us; and well he might be, for, agreeably to my
recollections, they were shockingly bad, and dirty withal. There was but
one knife; and that was used for the purpose of scraping the forks; and
yet, the charges were most extravagant. This, too, is the depôt, under
the personal supervision of the owners of the coaches, as we understood;
the principal of whom is the Secretary of State! He, at least, ought to
know the fact, and cause the evil to be abated. If I were upon those
terms of intimacy that would warrant the freedom, with the kindliest
motives, I would not hesitate to inform him of the existence of this
crying evil. Our restiff fellow-passenger had spent some little time in
New York, and was continually drawing comparisons; and, in his vexation
at the things around him, expressed his opinion that Yucatan would never
excel that State. This was a point upon which I felt no great
disposition to cavil.
I walked through the town at four o’clock. The streets were deserted,
the houses closed, and the people in their hammocks. At five, men were
lounging about, and the ladies making their toilet, either at the
windows or doors. This is a large town, and well built; but not more
than one-half of the houses are occupied.
Early in the evening hammocks were slung in the billiard-room, (the
place that had been the scene of our recent dinner,) and all my
fellow-passengers and myself, without distinction of party or sex,
conductors and Indians, turned in for the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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