Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
The kind friend to whom I have alluded, procured for me comfortable
quarters in an unoccupied building in the square, of which I at once
took possession. It is situated in front of the church, and adjoins the
curate’s house, which is tenanted by himself and his three or four
_femmes propres à tout_, and fifteen or sixteen children, who are taught
to call him father.
The square itself is a fine one; or, rather, there is room for a fine
one; but, like most other fine squares in the towns I have visited, is
destitute of style or decoration. The public buildings, which are the
town-house, of two stories, with low pillared arches, and the church,
are all that strike the eye of the stranger; the others are comprised of
some few one-story dwelling houses and stores, with huge doors and
barred windows, occupied by citizens and small dealers. The area of this
square serves as a market-place, and a pasture for mules to graze!
The church presents a neat appearance from without, and is one of the
very handsomest buildings I had seen in the country. It is of stone,
covered with a yellow stucco. The door lintels and arches are of carved
stone; it has two square turrets, in good keeping, and is set off with a
well-proportioned dome. There are some irregularities, however; but
these are not seen, except from particular points of observation. The
interior of this, as of most of the churches in the province, is in a
bad condition; its decorations are in barbarous taste, and its shrines
defaced. Its exterior impresses one with an idea of its vastness; but,
on entering, it appears diminutive. This is owing to the great depth of
the walls, of this and similar buildings throughout Yucatan, which are
frequently from twelve to fifteen feet thick. At the entrance is a
shrine, representing our Saviour bearing his cross, assisted by the
figure of a man in tight shorts, of the old English style, and coat to
match. The hat worn by the adjutant was not absolutely bad, but in
shocking bad taste. It was a silk imitation beaver; being one of those
high, bell-crowned narrow-rims, of the style worn some fifteen or twenty
years ago. This was probably intended for “Simon of Cyrene.” The
incumbent of this curacy has a large income, which, it is said, he has
enjoyed for many years, without having ever entered the walls of his
church.
The number of inhabitants of Valladolid and its suburbs, is estimated at
about fifteen thousand. The place is noted throughout the peninsula for
the salubrity of its climate; and no better evidence need be adduced,
than the simple fact of there not being a single doctor or apothecary in
the whole district. Citizens from other parts of the province, less
favored, come here to recruit and to recover their health.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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