Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
The streets are well laid out, and clean; but grass grows in the centre
of the most frequented. The same style of building is observed here as
in other parts of this country that I have visited. The houses are
principally of one story, flat roofs, large doors, and barred windows;
with court-yards, stone and mortar floors, &c. Many large houses in the
chief streets, within sight of the square, were fast going to decay.
There are no societies, or private or public places of instruction or
amusement. This is singular, when it is considered that the native
inhabitants speak of their _noble_ city, as they term it, with great
pride, and call themselves the _élite_ of Yucatan. This point I am not
prepared to dispute. It is certain, however, that the city, or its
society, presents few evidences of the schoolmaster having been abroad
among them.
The suburbs, or “barrios” as they are locally called, are five in
number; each having a church and its attendant priest. The population,
with a very few exceptions, is composed of poor Indians, the major part
of whom, of both sexes, go habitually _in puris naturalibus_, or nearly
so; living in mean huts, and supporting large and expensive churches;
while they themselves appear to be contented to subsist alone upon corn
and water.
In the barrio Sisal is the ruin of an old convent. Its crumbling walls
tell of changes that are slowly developing themselves in the civilized
world. It was an immense structure in its time, covering a space of two
acres, enclosed within a high stone wall; and remains a painful monument
of the mighty power which the order of Loyola, its original proprietors,
once exercised upon the destinies of this country. All that is now left
is the church, and the house of the priest. The cloisters, corridors,
and squares, are all fast going to pieces; and fragments of them are
lying about in every direction. Its spacious halls are now the abode of
the poor Indian, who aspires to a portion of the hallowed influence
which is reputed to hang around its dilapidated walls. The crumbling
turrets and blackened domes are covered with a wild vegetation, and have
become a perch for the buzzard, and the hiding-place for loathsome
reptiles. One of the wells connected with the monastery is dug through a
solid rock to the depth of one hundred and fifty feet, when it opens
upon a subterraneous river of pure water. In former times, a handsome
temple was erected over it; the remains of a part of its dome still
exist. There are not many pleasing associations connected with these
places.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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