Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
The blue restless waves, the jutting capes, and the inlet bays and
_calanques_ make charming combinations of land and sea and sky, and
repeat the story already told. The route crosses many vine-planted hills
and valleys, through short tunnels and around precipitous promontories,
but always under the eyes is that divinely beautiful view of the waters
of the Mediterranean. The traveller finds no villages, only little
hamlets here and there, and innumerable scattered country residences.
At Cavalaire the mountains of the Maures become less abrupt, and
surround the bay in a low semicircle of foot-hills, quite different from
the precipitous “_corniches_” of the Estérel or the mountains beyond
Nice.
The Baie de Cavalaire has nearly a league of fine sands; not so
extensive that they are as yet in demand as an automobile race-track,
but fine enough to rank as quite the best of their kind on the whole
Mediterranean shore of France. There will never be a resort here which
will rival Nice or Cannes; these latter have too great a start; but
whatever does grow up here in the way of a watering-place--a railway
station and a Café-Restaurant famous for its _bouillabaisse_ have
already arrived--will surpass them in many respects.
The place has, moreover, according to medical reports, the least
contrasting day and night temperature in winter of any of the
Mediterranean stations. This would seem cause enough for the founding
here of a great resort, but there is nothing of the kind nearer than the
little village of Le Lavandou, passed on the road from Bormes, a hamlet
whose inhabitants are too few for the makers of guide-books to number,
but which already boasts of a Grand Hotel and a Hôtel des Étrangers.
At La Croix, just north of the Baie de Cavalaire, has grown up a little
winter colony, consisting almost entirely of people from Lyons. It is
here that formerly existed some of the most celebrated vineyards in
Provence, the plants, it is supposed, being originally brought hither
by the Saracens.
The sudden breaking upon one’s vision of the ravishing Golfe de St.
Tropez, with its bordering fringe of palms, agavas, and rose-laurels,
and its wonderful parasol-pines, which nowhere along the Riviera are as
beautiful as here, is an experience long to be remembered.
The lovely little town of St. Tropez sleeps its life away on the shores
of this beautiful bay, quite in idyllic fashion, though it does boast of
a Tribunal de Pêche and of a few small craft floating in the gentle
ripples of the _darse_, the little harbour enclosed by moles of masonry
from the open gulf.
Up and down this basin are groups of fine parti-coloured houses, all
with a certain well-kept and prosperous air, with nothing of the sordid
or base aspect about them, such as one sees on so many watersides. A
little square, or _place_, forms an unusual note of life and colour with
its central statue of the great sailor, Suffren.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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