Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
It was from just such fortified heights as this that the Saracens were
able to command all Provence and the valley of the Rhône up to the Jura.
Concerning these far-away times, and the exact movements of the
Saracens, historians are not very precise, and a good deal has to be
taken on faith; but where monuments were left behind to tell the story,
albeit they were mostly fortresses, enough has come down to allow one to
build up a fabric which will give a more or less just view of the
extent of the Saracen influence which swept over southern Gaul from the
eighth to the tenth centuries.
They made one of their greatest strongholds here on the Pic du Fraxinet
(“the place planted with _frênes_”), and, in spite of the fact that they
were sooner or later driven from their position, as history does tell in
this case, their descendants, becoming Christians, were the ancestors of
the present growers of mulberry-trees and cork-oaks, and tenders of
silk-worms, which form the principal occupations of the inhabitants of
La Garde-Freinet to-day.
Any one, with the least eye for the fair sex, will note the fact that
the women of La Garde-Freinet--the _Fraxinétaines_ of the
ethnologists--have a unique kind of beauty greatly to be admired. They
are not as beautiful as the women of Arles, to whom the palm must always
be given among the women of France; but they are well-formed, with
beautiful hair, great, liquid black eyes, oval faces, and plump,
well-formed arms, justifying, even to-day, the beauty which they are
supposed to have acquired from their Moorish ancestors.
There are no monuments at La Garde-Freinet except the ruined, dominant
fortress, but for all that the pilgrimage is one worth the making, if
only for glimpses of those wonderfully beautiful women, or for the
delightful journey thither.
From La Foux and Grimaud one rapidly advances toward the Estérel, that
sheltering range of reddish, rocky mountains which makes Cannes and La
Napoule what they are.
St. Tropez and its tall white houses are left behind, and the shores of
the Golfe are followed until one comes to the most ancient town of Ste.
Maxime. Unlike St. Tropez, Ste. Maxime, though only thirty minutes away
by boat, across the mouth of the Golfe, has not the penetrating mistral
for a scourge. On the other hand one does get the sun in his eyes when
he wishes to view the sea, and has not that magically coloured curtain
of the Estérel, with all its varied reds and browns, before his eyes.
One cannot have everything as he wishes, even on the Riviera. If he has
the view, he often has also the mistral; and, if he finds a place that
is really sheltered from the mistral, it has a more or less restricted
view, and a climate which the doctors and invalids call “relaxing,”
whatever that arbitrary term may mean.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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