Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Fréjus is prolific in quaint customs and legends too numerous to
mention, though two, at least, stand out so plainly in the memory of the
writer that they are here recounted.
On a certain occasion in August,--not the usual season for tourists, but
genuine travel-lovers, having no season, go anywhere at any time,--as
the town was entered by the highroad, our automobile was abruptly
stopped at the _barrière_ by a motley crew clad in all manner of
military costumes, like the armies of the South American republics.
Firearms, too, were there, and when a grenadier of the time of
Louis-Philippe let off a smoky charge of gunpowder under our very noses,
it was a signal for a general _feu-de-joie_ which might have rivalled a
Fourth of July celebration in the United States, for the disaster which
it bid fair to bring in its wake. As a matter of fact, nothing happened,
and we were allowed to proceed in peace, though the sleep-destroying
cannonade was kept up throughout the night.
The occasion was nothing but the annual celebration of “_Les
Bravadeurs_,” a survival of the days of Louis XIV., when the town,
being left without a garrison, raised a motley army of its own to serve
in place of the troops of the king.
There is a legend, too, concerning the landing of St. François de Paule
here, which the native is fond of telling the stranger, but which needs
something more than the proverbial grain of salt to go with it, because
St. François is claimed to have first put foot on shore at various other
points along the coast.
The story is to the effect that the ship which bore the holy man from
the East having foundered, or not having been sufficiently sea-worthy to
continue the voyage, St. François stepped overboard and walked ashore on
the waves. He did not walk on the waves themselves in this case, but
laid his mantle upon them and walked on that. What he did when he came
to the edge of his mantle tradition does not state.
The ecclesiastical and political history of Fréjus is most interesting,
though it cannot be epitomized here. Two significant Napoleonic events
of the early nineteenth century stand out so strongly, however, that
they perforce must be mentioned.
In 1809 Pope Pius VII. stopped at Fréjus when he was making his way to
Fontainebleau, more or less unwillingly, as history tells. Five years
later the Holy Father again stopped at Fréjus on his return to Italy,
and Napoleon himself, on the 27th of the following April, awaiting the
moment of his departure for Elba, occupied the very apartment that had
received the pontiff.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account