Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Historic souvenirs in connection with Notre Dame de Laghet are many.
The Duc de Savoie, Victor Amédée, came here to worship in 1689, and a
century and a half later, his descendant, Charles Albert, shorn of his
crown, and a fugitive, sought shelter here from the dangers which beset
him. Here he knelt devoutly before the Madonna, and prayed that his
enemies might be forgiven. A tablet to-day memorializes the event.
The little church of the establishment contains hundreds of votive
offerings left by pious pilgrims, and, though architecturally the
edifice is a poor, humble thing, it ranks high among the places of
modern pilgrimage.
A kilometre beyond the gardens which face the Casino at Monte Carlo is a
little winding road leading blindly up the hillside. “_Où conduit-il?_”
you ask of a straggler; “_A La Turbie, m’sieu_;” and forthwith you
mount, spurning the aid of the _funiculaire_ farther down the road. When
one has progressed a hundred metres along this serpentine roadway, the
whole ensemble of beauties with which one has become familiar at the
coast are magnified and enhanced beyond belief. Nowhere is there a
gayer, livelier colouring to be seen on the Riviera; this in spite of
the conventionality of the glistening walls of the great hotels and the
artificial gardens with which the vicinity of the paradise of Monte
Carlo abounds.
As one turns another hairpin corner, another plane of the horizon opens
out until, after passing various isolated small houses, and zigzagging
upward another couple of kilometres, he enters upon the “Route
d’Italie,” and thence either turns to the left to La Turbie, or to the
right to Roquebrune, a half-dozen kilometres farther on.
La Turbie is quite as much of an exotic as Eze. It is as vivid a
reminder of a glory that is past as any monumental town still extant,
and its noble Augustan Trophy, as a memorial of a historical past, is
far greater than anything of its kind out of Rome itself. There is
something almost sublime about this great sky-piercing tower, a monument
to the vanquishing of the peoples of Gaul by the Roman legions.
Fragments of this great “trophy” have been carted away, and are to be
found all over the neighbouring country. Barbarians and Saracens, one
and all, pillaged the noble tower (“the magnificent witness to the
powers of the divine Augustus,” as the French historians call it), using
it as a quarry from which was drawn the building material for many of
their later works. Without scruple it has been shorn of its attributes
until to-day it is only a bare, gaunt skeleton of its former proud self.
Its marbles have been dispersed, some are in Nice, some in Monaco, and
some in Genoa, but the greatest of all the indignities which the edifice
underwent was that thrust upon it by Berwick, in 1706, when attempts
were actually made to pull it to the ground.
[Illustration: _Augustan Trophy, La Turbie_]
What its splendours must once have been may best be imagined from the
following description:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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