Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Cassis is a highly industrious little town, now mostly given over to the
manufacture of cement, the coastwise shipping of which gives a perpetual
liveliness to the port. The fishing, too, though, as before said, not
very considerable, results in a constant traffic with the wharves of
Marseilles, where the product is sold.
The white wine of Cassis, a “_vrai vin parfumé_,” which in another day
was produced much more extensively than now, is as much the proper thing
to drink with _bouillabaisse_ and _les coquillages_ as in the north are
Chablis and Graves with oysters and lobsters.
The _vin de Cassis_ is like the wine of which Keats wrote:
“So fine that it fills one’s mouth with gushing freshness,--that goes
down cool and feverless, and does not quarrel with your liver, lying as
quiet as it did in the grape.”
The sheltering headland which rises high above Cassis is known as Le
Gibel. On its highest peak the poet Mistral has placed the retreat of
the heroine Esteulle in his poem “Calandau.” Black and menacing, Cap
Canaille continues Le Gibel out toward the sea, and its sheer rise
above the Mediterranean approximates five hundred metres.
On the opposite bank of a little bay, called in Provençal a _calanque_,
rises the ruined towers and walls of a feudal château, of no interest
except that it forms a grim contrasting note with the blue background of
sky above and sea below.
A little farther on, sheltered at the head of a _calanque_, is Port
Miou, which has a legend that has made it a popular place of pilgrimage
for the Marseillais. The little port is well sheltered in the bay, with
the entrance nearly closed by a great sentinel rock, which is, at times,
wholly submerged by the waves. It is this which has given rise to the
legend that a Genoese fisherman, surprised by a tempest and being unable
to control his craft, abandoned the tiller and would have hurled himself
into the sea if his son, obeying a sudden inspiration, had not steered
the boat through the narrow strait and came to a safe harbour within.
The father at once fell upon the boy, killing him with a blow; but,
Providence taking no revenge, the boat drifted on to a safe anchorage.
The story is not a new one; the same legend, with variations, is heard
in many parts of western Europe and as far north as Norway, but it is
potent enough here to draw crowds of Sunday holiday-makers, in the
summer months, from Marseilles.
In 1377 Pope Gregory XI., who desired to reëstablish the papacy at Rome
after its seventy years at Avignon, took ship at Marseilles, but was
held back by contrary winds and seas and hovered about the little
archipelago of islands at the harbour’s mouth, until finally, when he
had at last got well started on his way, a furious tempest arose and the
vessel forced to anchor in the _calanque_ of Port Miou, called by the
historian of the voyage Portus Milonis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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