Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Directly in front of La Ciotat, at the foot of the Côte de Saint Cyr, on
the eastern shore of the bay, was an old Greek colony known to
geographers as Tauroentum. Rich and powerful in its own right,
Tauroentum rivalled its neighbour Marseilles, but the fleets of Pompey
and Cæsar had one of those old-time sea-fights off its quays, and the
city, having suffered greatly at the time, never recovered its
prosperity, and the more opulent and powerful Marseilles became the
metropolis for all time. The monumental remains to be observed to-day
are mostly covered with the sands of time, and only the antiquarian and
archæologist will get pleasure or satisfaction from any fragmentary
evidences which may be unearthed. The subject is a vast and most
interesting one, no doubt, but the enthusiast in such matters is
referred to Lentheric’s great work on “La Provence Maritime.”
La Ciotat, with its workmen’s houses and its shipyard, will not detain
one long. One will be more interested in making his way eastward along
the coast, when every kilometre will open up new splendours of
landscape.
Opposite La Ciotat is the hamlet of Les Lèques, well sheltered in the
bay of the same name. Lamartine, _en route_ for the Orient, compared it
with enthusiasm to the Bay of Naples, a simile which has been used with
regard to many another similar spot, but hardly with as much of
appropriateness as here. Said Lamartine: “_C’est un de ces nombreux
chefs-d’œuvre que Dieu a répandus partout_.”
From Les Lèques it is but a step to Bandol, a place not mentioned in the
note-books of many travellers, though to the French it is already
recognized as a “_station hivernale et de bains de mer_.” This is a
pity, for it will soon go the way of the other resorts.
Bandol is a small town of the Var, possessed of a remarkably beautiful
and sheltered site, and, since it numbers but a trifle over two thousand
souls, and has no palace hotels as yet, it may well be accounted as one
of the places on the beaten track of Riviera travel which has not yet
become wholly spoiled.
Bandol’s principal business is the growing of immortelles and
artichokes, with enough of the fishing industry to give a liveliness and
picturesqueness to the wharves of the little port.
It is a wonderfully warm corner of the littoral, here in the immediate
environs of Bandol, and palms, banana-trees, the eucalyptus, and many
other subtropical shrubs and plants thrive exceedingly. There is nothing
of the rigour of winter to blight this warm little corner; only the
mistral--which is everywhere (Monaco perhaps excepted)--or its equally
wicked brother, _le vent d’est_, ever makes disagreeable a visit to this
warm-welcoming little coast town.
A clock-tower, or belfry, an old château,--the construction of
Vauban,--and a jetty, which throws out its long tentacle-like arm to
sea, make up the chief architectural monuments of the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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