Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
The way is not long; it is astonishingly short for a sea voyage, and it
is only with a previous knowledge of the shallows--or, rather, the
deeps--that the craft can find its way across the scarcely hidden banks
of yellow sand. Fifteen minutes of this voyaging brings one to the isle,
and from its little jetty a _douanier_ accosts your boat to know if you
have anything dutiable on board, as well as for your ship’s papers, and
a doctor’s certificate. He need have no fears, however, for no one would
ever take the trouble to smuggle anything into Embiez. “Nothing doing,”
and the _douanier_ returns to his fishing off the jetty’s end.
The isle is a rock-surrounded mamelon which rises to a height of some
sixty or seventy metres, and is as wild and savage and romantic as the
most imaginative sketch ever outlined by Doré.
There is a fringe of small white houses, the dwellings of the workers in
the salt-works of the isle, and of that lonesome _douanier_, while
above, on an elevated plateau, is the Château de Sabran, which draws its
name from one of the illustrious and ancient families of Provence.
It is all very picturesque, but there is nothing very archaic about the
château, with the exception of one old tower. There are numerous
evidences which point to the fact that some kind of fortifications were
erected here in early times; the _douanier_ is divided in his opinion as
to whether they were the work of Saracens or Barbary pirates, and the
reader may take his choice. At any rate, there is an unspoiled setting
right here at hand for any writer who would like to try to turn out as
good a tale as “Treasure Island” or “Monte Cristo.”
Returning to the mainland, and following the highroad as it goes
eastward to Toulon, one comes upon the curiously named little town of
Six-Fours, situated on the very apex of the heights.
The very name of Six-Fours is enigmatic. It is certain that it was a
mountain fortress in days gone by; and from that--and the intimation
that there was once six forts or six towers here--one infers that its
name was evolved from Six-Forts, which name was written in Latin Sex
Furni and finally Six Fours. Another opinion--French antiquarians, like
their brethren the world over, are prolific in opinions--is that the
bizarre name was that of one of the lieutenants of Cæsar engaged in the
blockade of Marseilles. One named Sextus Furnus, or Sextus Furnis, did
occupy a mountain stronghold in that campaign, and it may have been the
site where the village of Six-Fours now stands.
Six-Fours, so curiously named, and so little known outside its immediate
neighbourhood, has many strange manners and customs. The genuine
Six-Fourneens are six feet or more in height, and will not--or would not
for a long time--marry any _étranger_, by which term they designate all
outsiders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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