Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Formerly the port of Toulon was closed by sinking a great chain across
the harbour-mouth. It went down with the sinking of the sun and only
rose at daybreak. The guardianship of this defence was given to some
“_homme de confiance_” of Toulon as a sort of deserved honour or glory.
This was in the seventeenth century, and to-day, though the guard-ships
and the search-lights of the forts do the same service, the name
“_Chaine Vieille_” is still in the mouths of the old sailors and
fishermen as they make their way to and fro from the Grande to the
Petite Rade.
Toulon has among its great men of the past the name of the Chevalier
Paul, perhaps first and foremost of all the seafarers of France since
the day of Dougay-Trouin. He had fixed his residence in the valley of
the Dardennes, with a roof over his head “_tout à fait digne d’un
prince_.” In the month of February, 1660, the celebrated sailor received
Louis XIV., Anne of Austria, the Duc d’Orléans, Cardinal Mazarin, “la
grande Mademoiselle,” innumerable princes and seigneurs, four
Secrétaires d’État, the ambassador of Venice, and the papal nuncio. This
royal company was splendidly fêted, much after the manner of those
assemblies held in the previous century in the châteaux of Touraine. The
Chevalier bore until his death the title of supreme “Commandant de la
Marine,” and when his death came, at the age of seventy, he made the
poor of the city his heirs.
One memory of Toulon, which is familiar to students of history and
romance, are the prisons and galleys of other days. Dumas draws a vivid
picture of the life in the galleys in one of his little known but most
absorbing tales, “Gabriel Lambert.”
To be sure, those who were condemned “_à ramer sur les galères_” were
mostly culprits who deserved some sort of punishment, but the survival
of the institution was one that one marvels at in these advanced
centuries.
Really the galley, and the uses to which it was put at Toulon in the
eighteenth century, was a survival of the galley of the ancients. It was
a long slim craft, of light draught, propelled by a single, double, or
treble bank of oars, and sometimes sails.
The punishment of the galleys, that is to say, the obligation to “_ramer
sur les galères_,” was applied to certain classes of criminals who were
known as _forçats_ or _galériens_. The crime of Gabriel Lambert, of whom
Dumas wrote with such fidelity, was that of counterfeiting.
In 1749 there were sixteen _galères_ here, eight of them at “_practice_”
at one time, giving occupation to thirty-seven hundred convicts who were
quartered on old hulks moored to the quays or on shore in a convict
prison.
[Illustration: _Toulon to Frejus_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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