Recollections of a Busy Life: Being the Reminiscences of a Liverpool Merchant 1840-1910Forwood, William Bower, Sir
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Recollections of a Busy Life: Being the Reminiscences of a Liverpool Merchant 1840-1910
Forwood, William Bower, Sir
Forwood, William Bower, Sir, 1840-1928; Merchants -- England -- Liverpool -- Biography
We had one little experience, to which I look back with much interest.
Staying at Biskra, on the borders of the Sahara, we formed a camp and
went four or five days' sojourn into the desert, quite a unique and
pleasant tour. We were joined by two American ladies, and our camp
consisted of eleven men and about a dozen mules, and four or five
camels. We had an excellent native dragoman, who turned out to be a
very good cook. The camels carried the tents and bedding, and the
kitchen utensils, while we rode the mules. As we marched out of Biskra
we formed quite an important cavalcade and all the people in the hotel
turned out to see us. After marching about ten miles we halted for
lunch, and it was surprising how soon Achmed had a ragout ready for us.
We afterwards marched about fifteen miles, and pitched our camp just
outside an oasis, and not very far from an encampment of Bedouins.
The days were very hot, but the nights quite cold. Our beds were spread
on the ground in the tents, and we required all our blankets and rugs to
keep the cold out. An armed Arab slept on the ground outside the door of
each tent. The desert at this season of the year--the spring--was
covered, more or less, with short grass and an abundance of wild
flowers. In many places we had to pass over large areas of sand dunes,
which were very trying, and to cross the dried-up beds of rivers. These
rivers come down from the mountains when the snows melt and rush along
in mighty torrents, scooping out water courses, until they finally lose
themselves in the burning sands of the desert. As we got away from the
mountains, the desert began to look more and more like the ocean, with
its clean-cut horizon all round, the hummocks of sand reminding one of
Atlantic seas. The clear blue sky and the translucent atmosphere
imparted an enchanting aspect to the scene; indeed, it became
fascinating, and I can quite enter into the spirit of the Bedouin, who
sees in the wastes of his Sahara so much to love and to attract him.
The intense sense of loneliness is a new experience for an Englishman,
and awakens within him strange emotions, giving him new views of his
environment and throwing new lights upon the future. The starlight
nights were lovely, and on one night we were able to play bridge by
starlight up to midnight.
We passed through several oases, which usually consist of a village
surrounded by two or three thousand date-palm trees, the houses being
built of mud and thatched with palm leaves. Palms constitute the riches
of this country, and a man's wealth is computed by the number of
date-palm trees or camels he possesses.
The Bedouin tribes we came across seemed a well-behaved, peaceable
people. They move about with their flocks of sheep and goats. At night
their flocks are tethered about their tents, and by day they wander in
search of pasture. The men beguile their time while watching their
flocks by doing embroideries, and also in making garments. They lead the
simple life.
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