Clergy -- England -- Biography; Stoughton, John, 1807-1897
We left Subiaco for Olevano, and were benighted on our way, as the horses
toiled up hill after hill. We reached Olevano late at night, and caused
quite a commotion in the narrow street, by our inquiries after the hotel,
where we were to pass the night, and which, ignorantly, we had passed by,
at the hill-top which overlooks the town. There, to our delight, we met
with a most enjoyable reception, as the house is a favourite resort for
artists; and though we blundered into a room, already occupied by guests,
we were permitted to remain, and listen to charming stories of the place
and its surroundings. After tarrying a few hours next morning, we had to
hasten our departure, that we might catch a train on the railway from
Naples to Rome.
After leaving Rome on our way to England, we halted some days at Venice,
and revived old recollections. I went over points of interest in a visit
years before, and new pictorial and architectural pleasures were enjoyed.
We proceeded to Bologna, and crossed the beautiful Lago di Garda, spent a
day or two at Trent, where special services were being held for young
people, and hosts of “shining ones” in white, crowded the churches.
In 1881 I visited Italy again, especially for the purpose of carrying on
researches commenced just before. The journey was rapid. Reaching
Turin, accompanied by my dear daughter, I began my work by searching out
localities which I could easily identify. In other places I picked up
illustrations I desired; for, when the mind is bent on a particular
inquiry, it is wonderful how it draws cognate matters to itself. We made
an excursion to Pavia, and, on the way, stopped at the beautiful
monastery of Certosa. Pavia, situated on the river Ticino, with a
covered bridge, is interesting, from its antiquities and history. The
churches are specimens of Lombardic architecture, and in the Duomo one
was startled to find the tomb of Augustine, Bishop of Hippo, whose
remains were transferred from Africa to this city. They were there at
the time of our visit, his monument being full of magnificence and
beauty, in general form and particular details. Since I was at Pavia,
the body has been restored to its original resting-place. Pavia connects
itself with the philosopher, Boetius, by a popular tradition that he was
imprisoned in a tower belonging to the city. Piacenza and Bologna during
this journey afforded gleanings which helped me to realise important
events occurring there at the time of the Reformation; but it was in
Florence that I did most work, and spent more than a week from day to day
tracking Savonarola’s footsteps through the streets, from San Marco to
the Palazzo Vecchio, and back again, not forgetting his visit to Lorenzo
di Medici at his villa in Careggi, with views of rich woodlands and
grassy fields. But my chief employment was in the public library,
searching out and deciphering original documents, connected with his
trial.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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