Clergy -- England -- Biography; Stoughton, John, 1807-1897
Next to Barcelona, we visited Tarragona, travelling there by rail.
Tarragona is situated on an eminence commanding a fine view of the
Mediterranean, and I was much interested in the architecture of the
cathedral, a building of the eleventh century, fully described by Street
in his work on “The Gothic Architecture of Spain.”
Whilst tarrying at Tarragona, I made an excursion to Poblet, rarely
visited by English, though frequented by French and German travellers.
This place is distinguished by monastic remains of extraordinary
magnificence. You wander amongst courts, cloisters, and dormitories,
through stately halls, which once boasted of a magnificent library rich
in MSS.; through a palace appropriated for the use of royal and noble
visitants; and through a stately church with a nave of seven bays. The
architectural grandeur of the whole is amazing; I was surprised to learn
that it is so rarely seen by our countrymen. Kings and nobles were
brought there for interment, and in that respect it vies with our
Westminster Abbey. At Poblet shattered tombs may still be seen; and few,
if any, but Spaniards of purest blood, were permitted to sleep within the
monastic walls. A marble slab may be seen covering the remains of an
Englishman, described in the Spanish guide book as “Felipe de, Marquése
de Malbursi y de Cacharloch,” etc. Wharton was the English name of this
well-known personage, who was made Knight of the Garter by James II. He
had become a Roman Catholic, but his father was a distinguished English
Nonconformist.
Our next destination was Valencia, to which city we travelled by rail,
enchanted as we approached it, by beautiful scenery which one does not
find abundant in Spain. Augustus Hare breaks out rather rapturously
respecting his approach: “Day broke in time to show us the first vision
of tall palms, with their feathery foliage, rising black against one of
Tennyson’s ‘daffodil skies,’ which above, still deep blue, was filled
with stars.” The groves and gardens appeared to me very beautiful; and
the soil is so fertile, that lucerne is sown fifteen times in the course
of a year. Valencia has battlemented walls; and its arched gate, the
Puerta de Sarranos, reminds one of old English barbicans. It is an
Oriental kind of place, and has charmingly arched entrances for
light—_agimes_,—_i.e._, openings by which the sun enters. The city is
full of memories, connected with the Cid, which I have not space to
introduce; but I may mention that precursors of the Reformation entered
the city in 1350,—under the name of Beghards, who figure rather
prominently in the religious history of that period.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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