Clergy -- England -- Biography; Stoughton, John, 1807-1897
to the English Episcopal Church, where the Lord’s Supper was administered
according to Protestant rites, and I could not but be impressed by the
contrast between the two services. It illustrated the change effected by
the Reformation. I mentioned this once to the Rev. Frederic Denison
Maurice, who, of course, agreed with me; and, talking of Rome, he
happened to relate an anecdote which I do not remember having seen in
print. Pio Nono, after the suppression of Latin nunneries in Poland,
received a visit from the Emperor of Russia. “You are a great king,”
said the former to the latter, “one of the mightiest in the world. I am
a poor feeble man, servant of servants; but I cite you to meet me before
the Judge of all, and to answer for your treatment of helpless women.”
There was the old assumption of authority; but there was a touch of
grandeur in the words.
I saw the catacombs, following my guide, taper in hand; and in one of the
strange passages was accosted by name. “Who could have expected to be
recognised in this dark underworld?” I exclaimed. It turned out to be a
person who had lived at Eton, and been a hearer of mine at Windsor.
Other recognitions have occurred to me of an odd kind, when visiting
several places.
I became so attracted by what I saw in Rome, and drank so deeply into the
spirit of Arnold’s letters, written there, that my last day was spent in
pensive leave-takings of ruin after ruin, church after church. I have
been there twice since, each for a longer time than the first; but not
with quite the impression which I felt in the first instance.
We proceeded to Naples, stopped at Cisterna, at Terracinia, at Gaeta, and
at S. Agata. Whoever has travelled the same road must long remember the
fragrance of the orange-groves and the coloured dresses of the peasantry.
We had no trouble at custom-houses on the way, for my two companions and
myself travelled in humble fashion. Otherwise did the two doctors,
already mentioned, fare. Large sums were demanded of them on the
Neapolitan frontier; and when they refused to pay, their luggage was
searched, and a coloured pen-wiper being found, the officials declared it
was a _revolutionary cockade_, and that books in their portmanteaus were
no doubt full of treason and heresy. There was no alternative but to
stay where they were, or to allow a soldier to accompany them in charge
of the suspected articles. All this trouble was followed by apologies on
reaching Naples, after an appeal had been made to the English Consul.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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