Clergy -- England -- Biography; Stoughton, John, 1807-1897
On Saturday morning we embarked at Smyrna for Constantinople. We faintly
discerned in the far distance, as we crossed those classic waters, point
after point closely connected with ancient story. Of course, all the
way, amidst Homeric scenes and associations, we called them to mind by
Homer’s help; but the thought of St. John’s labours, his epistles, to the
seven churches in the Apocalypse, more prominently occupied one’s mind on
the Lord’s day, when we had worship in the saloon, and I preached, as
well as I could, to a few sympathetic fellow-passengers.
On Monday morning early, we reached the Golden Horn, filled with
shipping. Caiques were quietly gliding over still waters; but we were
troubled at the Custom House by an ignorant soldier, who laid hold upon
my “Homer” and detained it for two or three days.
Kemp-Welch was the only member of our party left, the rest proceeding
homeward by another route. I made the most of what was possible during
the four days spent at Constantinople. My friend and I followed the
circuit of the city on horseback; through Stamboul, which appeared very
Oriental, ruinous and dirty—through lines of cypresses, near cemeteries
with turbaned headstones; and so, all round, till we reached the sweet
waters. There we tarried a while, looking at the gardens, and their
summer houses, called kiosks. The place is a resort like Hampton Court.
Thence we returned to the city. Next day we crossed the Golden Horn, and
saw the Sultan’s seraglio, attached to which are more gardens and more
kiosks. The place contains a library full of Arabic MSS., and a throne
room, with the Sultan’s divan, surmounted with a baldacchino. There His
Majesty used to hold his court, attended by janissaries, and was screened
from the view of subjects, except that his hands were visible. The
Sublime Porte is the grand entrance to the room of audience for
ambassadors from other courts.
We visited the arsenal with its ammunition, muskets, and swords. The
building, it is said, was in the fourth century a church—the Church of S.
Irene, where Chrysostom preached some of his wonderful sermons—and it has
still in the apse an antique cross. But the grand ecclesiastical edifice
of Constantinople is S. Sophia, with columns brought from Ephesus, and
representations of four cherubim with their faces obliterated. A legend
is preserved to this effect, that when Constantinople was taken by the
Turks, a priest was saying mass—immediately a chasm opened in the wall
and received him. There he still remains, chalice in hand, waiting to
finish the service, when Christians recover the ancient edifice.
But I must not enter into further details of what I saw and heard during
my short stay at Constantinople. I was now left alone, as my only
remaining companion was obliged to return home by a different route.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account