Afghan Wars; Crimean War, 1853-1856; Egypt -- History -- British occupation, 1882-1936; India -- History -- Sepoy Rebellion, 1857-1858
As soon as we were free, the British Ambassador, Sir Henry Elliot,
kindly received us for a few days at his palace at Therapia, on the
Bosphorus; and at his request, I paid a visit, accompanied by an
interpreter, to the Grand Vizier, Midhat Pasha, who was anxious to
discuss the Turkish armaments and defences. I had previously inspected
the arsenal and manufacturing departments; and frankly told him that
they were in considerable confusion, and that a great deal of money had
apparently been wasted in the purchase of second-rate half-obsolete
material, partly on the Continent and partly in America; and that, in
view of the rapid advances in the science of artillery, and in small
arms, I advised prudence and economy. He listened attentively, and
his reply was 'Pekki,' which I found meant approbation (literally,
'Very good'); and went on to say, that the lavish expenditure had
been incurred by his predecessors, but that he would be careful. He
then alluded to the defence of Constantinople against naval attack;
and I pointed out that, considering the comparative narrowness of the
Bosphorus, it offered great facilities for the employment of ground
torpedoes. Midhat Pasha was apparently ignorant on the subject, so
I explained as lucidly as possible that a torpedo was a case of
gunpowder, which, placed at the bottom of the channel, could be
exploded by electricity as the enemy's vessel passed over it; and that
such defence was simple, efficient, and cheap. This gave him much
satisfaction, and he replied, 'Pekki, Pekki,' with great fervour. I
heard afterwards that he had been pleased with the interview, and
especially with my economical views. He had, however, no opportunity of
acting on them, having been dismissed from office almost immediately
afterwards.
Having taken leave of Gordon, who returned to his improvements on
the Danube, I then proceeded to Smyrna, where a few British tombs
and memorials of the war existed; and on my arrival called on the
British Consul, who lived in a charming house overlooking the bay. On
expressing my admiration of his residence, the Consul's wife explained
that there was a difficulty in keeping it in order, on account of
incessant earthquakes; although lately they had been more free from
them. Hardly had I returned to the hotel than I heard a rumbling noise.
Then the whole house commenced rocking violently to and fro, and it
became evident that the overdue earthquake had arrived. Fortunately not
much damage was done.
During my stay at Smyrna I paid a visit to Ephesus, meeting Mr. Wood,
who had been sent out by the authorities of the British Museum, and
was excavating the recently discovered ruins of the temple of Diana.
My duties, however, required me to return home; and travelling through
France, I took an opportunity, when at Paris, of sketching ruins of
a very different character--those of the Tuileries, on which were
inscribed in large letters, 'Liberté--Egalité--Fraternité.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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