The impression was, as we advanced up to the head of this first reach, as
if the glen were nothing, its loneliness and retirement—as if it made up
no part of my feeling: the mountains were all in all. That which fronted
us—I have forgotten its name—was exceedingly lofty, the surface stony,
nay, the whole mountain was one mass of stone, wrinkled and puckered up
together. At the second and last reach—for it is not a winding vale—it
makes a quick turning almost at right angles to the first; and now we are
in the depths of the mountains; no trees in the glen, only green
pasturage for sheep, and here and there a plot of hay-ground, and
something that tells of former cultivation. I observed this to the
guide, who said that formerly the glen had had many inhabitants, and that
there, as elsewhere in the Highlands, there had been a great deal of corn
where now the lands were left waste, and nothing fed upon them but
cattle. I cannot attempt to describe the mountains. I can only say that
I thought those on our right—for the other side was only a continued high
ridge or craggy barrier, broken along the top into petty spiral
forms—were the grandest I had ever seen. It seldom happens that
mountains in a very clear air look exceedingly high, but these, though we
could see the whole of them to their very summits, appeared to me more
majestic in their own nakedness than our imaginations could have
conceived them to be, had they been half hidden by clouds, yet showing
some of their highest pinnacles. They were such forms as Milton might be
supposed to have had in his mind when he applied to Satan that sublime
expression—
‘His stature reached the sky.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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