_Tuesday_, _September_ 6_th_.—Walked before breakfast in Lord
Breadalbane’s grounds, which border upon the river Tay. The higher
elevations command fine views of the lake; and the walks are led along
the river’s banks, and shaded with tall trees: but it seemed to us that a
bad taste had been at work, the banks being regularly shaven and cut as
if by rule and line. One or two of such walks I should well have liked
to see; but they are all equally trim, and I could not but regret that
the fine trees had not been left to grow out of a turf that cattle were
permitted to feed upon. There was one avenue which would well have
graced the ruins of an abbey or some stately castle. It was of a very
great length, perfectly straight, the trees meeting at the top in a
cathedral arch, lessening in perspective,—the boughs the roof, the stems
the pillars. I never saw so beautiful an avenue. We were told that some
improver of pleasure-grounds had advised Lord B. to cut down the trees,
and lay the whole open to the lawn, for the avenue is very near his
house. His own better taste, or that of some other person, I suppose,
had saved them from the axe. Many workmen were employed in building a
large mansion something like that of Inverary, close to the old house,
which was yet standing; the situation, as we thought, very bad,
considering that Lord Breadalbane had the command of all the ground at
the foot of the lake, including hills both high and low. It is in a
hollow, without prospect either of the lake or river, or anything
else—seeing nothing, and adorning nothing. After breakfast, left
Kenmore, and travelled through the vale of Tay, I believe fifteen or
sixteen miles; but in the course of this we turned out of our way to the
Falls of Moness, a stream tributary to the Tay, which passes through a
narrow glen with very steep banks. A path like a woodman’s track has
been carried through the glen, which, though the private property of a
gentleman, has not been taken out of the hands of Nature, but merely
rendered accessible by this path, which ends at the waterfalls. They
tumble from a great height, and are indeed very beautiful falls, and we
could have sate with pleasure the whole morning beside the cool basin in
which the waters rest, surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees.
In one of the most retired parts of the dell, we met a young man coming
slowly along the path, intent upon a book which he was reading: he did
not seem to be of the rank of a gentleman, though above that of a
peasant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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