The castle stands on low ground, and far from the Garry, commanding a
prospect all round of distant mountains, a bare and cold scene, and, from
the irregularity and width of it, not so grand as one should expect,
knowing the great height of some of the mountains. Within the Duke’s
park are three glens, the glen of the river Tilt and two others, which,
if they had been planted more judiciously, would have been very sweet
retirements; but they are choked up, the whole hollow of the glens—I do
not speak of the Tilt, for that is rich in natural wood—being closely
planted with trees, and those chiefly firs; but many of the old fir-trees
are, as single trees, very fine. On each side of the glen is an ell-wide
gravel walk, which the gardener told us was swept once a week. It is
conducted at the top of the banks, on each side, at nearly equal height,
and equal distance from the stream; they lead you up one of these paths,
and down the other—very wearisome, as you will believe—mile after mile!
We went into the garden, where there was plenty of fruit—gooseberries,
hanging as thick as possible upon the trees, ready to drop off; I thought
the gardener might have invited us to refresh ourselves with some of his
fruit after our long fatigue. One part of the garden was decorated with
statues, ‘images,’ as poor Mr. Gill used to call those at Racedown,
dressed in gay-painted clothes; and in a retired corner of the grounds,
under some tall trees, appeared the figure of a favourite old gamekeeper
of one of the former Dukes, in the attitude of pointing his gun at the
game—‘reported to be a striking likeness,’ said the gardener. Looking at
some of the tall larches, with long hairy twigs, very beautiful trees, he
told us that they were among the first which had ever been planted in
Scotland, that a Duke of Athol had brought a single larch from London in
a pot, in his coach, from which had sprung the whole family that had
overspread Scotland. This, probably, might not be accurate, for others
might afterwards have come, or seed from other trees. He told us many
anecdotes of the present Duke, which I wish I could perfectly remember.
He is an indefatigable sportsman, hunts the wild deer on foot, attended
by twelve Highlanders in the Highland dress, which he himself formerly
used to wear; he will go out at four o’clock in the morning, and not
return till night. His fine family, ‘Athol’s honest men, and Athol’s
bonny lasses,’ to whom Burns, in his bumpers, drank health and long life,
are dwindled away: of nine, I believe only four are left: the mother of
them is dead in a consumption, and the Duke married again. We rested
upon the heather seat which Burns was so loth to quit that moonlight
evening when he first went to Blair Castle, and had a pleasure in
thinking that he had been under the same shelter, and viewed the little
waterfall opposite with some of the happy and pure feelings of his better
mind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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