After having gone for some time under a bare hill, we were told to leave
the car at some cottages, and pass through a little gate near a brook
which crossed the road. We walked upwards at least three quarters of a
mile in the hot sun, with the stream on our right, both sides of which to
a considerable height were planted with firs and larches
intermingled—children of poor Burns’s song; for his sake we wished that
they had been the natural trees of Scotland, birches, ashes,
mountain-ashes, etc.; however, sixty or seventy years hence they will be
no unworthy monument to his memory. At present, nothing can be uglier
than the whole chasm of the hill-side with its formal walks. I do not
mean to condemn them, for, for aught I know, they are as well managed as
they could be; but it is not easy to see the use of a pleasure-path
leading to nothing, up a steep and naked hill in the midst of an unlovely
tract of country, though by the side of a tumbling stream of clear water.
It does not surely deserve the name of a pleasure-path. It is three
miles from the Duke of Athol’s house, and I do not believe that one
person living within five miles of the place would wish to go twice to
it. The falls are high, the rocks and stones fretted and gnawed by the
water. I do not wonder at the pleasure which Burns received from this
stream; I believe we should have been much pleased if we had come upon it
as he did. At the bottom of the hill we took up our car, and, turning
back, joined the man who was to be our guide.
Crossed the Garry, and went along a moor without any road but straggling
cart-tracks. Soon began to ascend a high hill, and the ground grew so
rough—road there was none—that we were obliged to walk most of the way.
Ascended to a considerable height, and commanded an extensive prospect
bounded by lofty mountains, and having crossed the top of the fell we
parted with our guide, being in sight of the vale into which we were to
descend, and to pursue upwards till we should come to Loch Rannoch, a
lake, as described to us, bedded in a forest of Scotch pines.
When left to ourselves we sate down on the hillside, and looked with
delight into the deep vale below, which was exceedingly green, not
regularly fenced or cultivated, but the level area scattered over with
bushes and trees, and through that level ground glided a glassy river,
not in serpentine windings, but in direct turnings backwards and
forwards, and then flowed into the head of the Lake of Tummel; but I will
copy a rough sketch which I made while we sate upon the hill, which,
imperfect as it is, will give a better idea of the course of the
river—which I must add is more curious than beautiful—than my
description. The ground must be often overflowed in winter, for the
water seemed to touch the very edge of its banks. At this time the scene
was soft and cheerful, such as invited us downwards, and made us proud of
our adventure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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