After long waiting, and many clumsy preparations, we got ourselves seated
in the boat; but we had not floated five yards before we perceived that
if any of the party—and there was a little Highland woman who was going
over the water with us, the boatman, his helper, and ourselves—should
stir but a few inches, leaning to one side or the other, the boat would
be full in an instant, and we at the bottom; besides, it was very leaky,
and the woman was employed to lade out the water continually. It
appeared that this crazy vessel was not the man’s own, and that _his_ was
lying in a bay at a little distance. He said he would take us to it as
fast as possible, but I was so much frightened I would gladly have given
up the whole day’s journey; indeed not one of us would have attempted to
cross the lake in that boat for a thousand pounds. We reached the larger
boat in safety after coasting a considerable way near the shore, but just
as we were landing, William dropped the bundle which contained our food
into the water. The fowls were no worse, but some sugar, ground coffee,
and pepper-cake seemed to be entirely spoiled. We gathered together as
much of the coffee and sugar as we could and tied it up, and again
trusted ourselves to the lake. The sun shone, and the air was
calm—luckily it had been so while we were in the crazy boat—we had rocks
and woods on each side of us, or bare hills; seldom a single cottage and
there was no rememberable place till we came opposite to a waterfall of
no inconsiderable size, that appeared to drop directly into the lake:
close to it was a hut, which we were told was the ferry-house. On the
other side of the lake was a pretty farm under the mountains, beside a
river, the cultivated grounds lying all together, and sloping towards the
lake from the mountain hollow down which the river came. It is not easy
to conceive how beautiful these spots appeared after moving on so long
between the solitary steeps.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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