After Coleridge came up to us, while we were debating whether we should
turn back or go forward, we espied a man on horseback at a little
distance, with a boy following him on foot, no doubt a welcome sight, and
we hailed him. We should have been glad to have seen either man, woman,
or child at this time, but there was something uncommon and interesting
in this man’s appearance, which would have fixed our attention wherever
we had met him. He was a complete Highlander in dress, figure, and face,
and a very fine-looking man, hardy and vigorous, though past his prime.
While he stood waiting for us in his bonnet and plaid, which never look
more graceful than on horseback, I forgot our errand, and only felt glad
that we were in the Highlands. William accosted him with, ‘Sir, do you
speak English?’ He replied, ‘A little.’ He spoke however, sufficiently
well for our purpose, and very distinctly, as all the Highlanders do who
learn English as a foreign language; but in a long conversation they want
words; he informed us that he himself was going beyond the Trossachs, to
Callander, that no boats were kept to ‘let;’ but there were two
gentlemen’s houses at this end of the lake, one of which we could not yet
see, it being hidden from us by a part of the hill on which we stood.
The other house was that which we saw opposite to us; both the gentlemen
kept boats, and probably might be able to spare one of their servants to
go with us. After we had asked many questions, which the Highlander
answered with patience and courtesy, he parted from us, going along a
sort of horse-track, which a foot-passenger, if he once get into it, need
not lose if he be careful.
When he was gone we again debated whether we should go back to Tarbet, or
throw ourselves upon the mercy of one of the two gentlemen for a night’s
lodging. What we had seen of the main body of the lake made us little
desire to see more of it; the Highlander upon the naked heath, in his
Highland dress, upon his careful-going horse, with the boy following him,
was worth it all; but after a little while we resolved to go on, ashamed
to shrink from an adventure. Pursued the horse-track, and soon came in
sight of the other gentleman’s house, which stood on the opposite side of
the vale, a little above the lake. It was a white house; no trees near
it except a new plantation of firs; but the fields were green, sprinkled
over with haycocks, and the brook which comes down the valley and falls
into the lake ran through them. It was like a new-made farm in a
mountain vale, and yet very pleasing after the depressing prospect which
had been before us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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