We found the ferryman at work in the field above his hut, and he was at
liberty to go with us, but, being wet and hungry, we begged that he would
let us sit by his fire till we had refreshed ourselves. This was the
first genuine Highland hut we had been in. We entered by the cow-house,
the house-door being within, at right angles to the outer door. The
woman was distressed that she had a bad fire, but she heaped up some dry
peats and heather, and, blowing it with her breath, in a short time
raised a blaze that scorched us into comfortable feelings. A small part
of the smoke found its way out of the hole of the chimney, the rest
through the open window-places, one of which was within the recess of the
fireplace, and made a frame to a little picture of the restless lake and
the opposite shore, seen when the outer door was open. The woman of the
house was very kind: whenever we asked her for anything it seemed a fresh
pleasure to her that she had it for us; she always answered with a sort
of softening down of the Scotch exclamation, ‘Hoot!’ ‘Ho! yes, ye’ll get
that,’ and hied to her cupboard in the spence. We were amused with the
phrase ‘Ye’ll get that’ in the Highlands, which appeared to us as if it
came from a perpetual feeling of the difficulty with which most things
are procured. We got oatmeal, butter, bread and milk, made some
porridge, and then departed. It was rainy and cold, with a strong wind.
Coleridge was afraid of the cold in the boat, so he determined to walk
down the lake, pursuing the same road we had come along. There was
nothing very interesting for the first three or four miles on either side
of the water: to the right, uncultivated heath or poor coppice-wood, and
to the left, a scattering of meadow ground, patches of corn,
coppice-woods, and here and there a cottage. The wind fell, and it began
to rain heavily. On this William wrapped himself in the boatman’s plaid,
and lay at the bottom of the boat till we came to a place where I could
not help rousing him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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