On the way from Paris to London he turned aside to Holland, in order to
study the celebrated collection of Egyptian antiquities at Leyden, which
since 1835 had an excellent director in C. Leemans. Here Lepsius found
an unexpected wealth of the most valuable monuments and papyri, and on
September 12th, 1838, he wrote to Bunsen: “I was going to leave to-day,
but now I shall be glad to stay for a few days more, as I can not return
again, and so must finish here once for always.[38] Besides, Leemans,
with whom I am staying, is a charming man; admirable alike in head and
heart, and full of ability in every direction. He helps me wherever he
can, and has already made Leyden a city of delight to me.”
In England he was most cordially received by Bunsen, who had resigned
his post at Rome, and left that city before our friend. The reason of
this was that he had not succeeded in making an amicable adjustment of
the ecclesiastical complications in Prussia (the quarrel at Cologne and
the imprisonment of the Bishop of Droste-Vischering). Lepsius had long
been adopted as a beloved comrade by the Bunsen family, and his letters
show what a hearty interest he felt in every member of it, especially in
the lad George, who was afterwards to become a prominent member of the
German National Assembly.
It was an easy thing for Bunsen, whose admirable wife was descended from
an English family of distinction, to smooth the way for Lepsius, not
only in London but throughout Great Britain, and to open to him the
doors of the best houses and of the collections most difficult of
access. In this way the young German scholar not only learned to know
English life on all sides, but also obtained admission to all the
collections of Egyptian antiquities, whether they belonged to the
government or to private individuals. He knew how to turn these
favorable opportunities to good account, and in all England there were
few hieroglyphic inscriptions which Lepsius did not carry away with him,
either in impressions or copies, when he quitted hospitable Albion. His
intercourse with Bunsen was especially delightful when he visited him at
beautiful Llanover, the country place of his mother-in-law, Mrs.
Waddington. Speaking of this subject, Hare says in his biography of the
Baroness von Bunsen, “The friends were accustomed to wander over the
hills for hours together in enthusiastic conversation about Egypt and
its antiquarian writings, or to sit in profound conversation in the
churchyard of Llanffoist under an oak tree a thousand years old.” They
had much to say of the affairs of the Roman Institute, which Lepsius
found to be very badly managed in England. The subscribers there had
received none of the publications for years, many of them not since
1830, and on this account had stopped paying their dues. Others had
supposed that the Institute had been dissolved, and the difficult task
of correcting these errors and determining and collecting the arrears
fell to Lepsius.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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