Great Britain -- Description and travel; Railroad travel -- Great Britain; Railroads -- Great Britain
The first diverging railway after leaving Handsworth, on the road to the
north, is what, for want of a better name, is called the South Staffordshire,
which connects Birmingham with Dudley, Walsall, Lichfield, and Tamworth, thus
uniting the most purely agricultural with the most thoroughly manufacturing
districts, and especially with that part of the great coal-field which is
locally known as the "Black Country." In this Black Country, including West
Bromwich, Wednesbury, Dudley, and Darlaston, Bilston, Wolverhampton, and
several minor villages, a perpetual twilight reigns during the day, and
during the night fires on all sides light up the dark landscape with a fiery
glow. The pleasant green of pastures is almost unknown, the streams, in
which no fishes swim, are black and unwholesome; the natural dead flat is
often broken by huge hills of cinders and spoil from the mines; the few trees
are stunted and blasted; no birds are to be seen, except a few smoky
sparrows; and for miles on miles a black waste spreads around, where furnaces
continually smoke, steam-engines thud and hiss, and long chains clank, while
blind gin-horses walk their doleful round. From time to time you pass a
cluster of deserted roofless cottages of dingiest brick, half-swallowed up in
sinking pits or inclining to every point of the compass, while the timbers
point up like the ribs of a half-decayed corpse. The majority of the natives
of this Tartarian region are in full keeping with the scenery--savages,
without the grace of savages, coarsely clad in filthy garments, with no
change on week-days and Sundays, they converse in a language belarded with
fearful and disgusting oaths, which can scarcely be recognized as the same as
that of civilized England.
On working days few men are to be seen, they are in the pits or the
ironworks, but women are met on the high-road clad in men's once white
linsey-woolsey coats and felt hats, driving and cursing strings of donkeys
laden with coals or iron rods for the use of the nailers.
On certain rare holidays these people wash their faces, clothe themselves in
decent garments, and, since the opening of the South Staffordshire Railway,
take advantage of cheap excursion trains, go down to Birmingham to amuse
themselves and make purchases. It would be a useful lesson for any one who
is particularly well satisfied with the moral, educational, and religious
state of his countrymen, to make a little journey through this Black Country.
He will find that the amiable enthusiasts who meet every May at Exeter Hall
to consider on the best means of converting certain aboriginal tribes in
Africa, India, and the Islands of the Pacific, need not go so far to find
human beings more barbarous and yet much more easily reclaimed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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