Rings for the finger : $b from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archæology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.Kunz, George Frederick
History
Rings for the finger : $b from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archæology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.
Kunz, George Frederick
Rings; Rings -- Folklore
Signet rings were very popular in the latter part of the eighteenth
century and into the nineteenth century. Then, later on, they were
revived in the latter part of the nineteenth century, this revival
continuing into the twentieth century. In the earlier period it
was customary to engrave the crest and motto, or the full arms
and motto, on the ring stone, which was generally bloodstone or
carnelian, occasionally white chalcedony, more rarely lapis lazuli,
in contradistinction to the large seal fobs, in which the favorite
stones were amethyst, rock crystal, smoky topaz (quartz variety), pale
chalcedony or some lighter colored material. Many signet rings were
engraved upon gold, the sides of the rings being also engraved, as a
general rule.
Since the year 1900, great interest has been aroused in seal rings,
many of the designs of which are incised in gold or in platinum, the
entire ring being of gold or platinum, or having a platinum disk set
in a gold hoop. The entire variety of fancy stones is used: pale
amethyst, ruby, beryl, aquamarine, zircon, garnet, sard which has been
stained brown, carnelian (rarely), bloodstone, and jade--both the
nephrite variety from New Zealand and Russia and the jadeite variety
found at Bahmo, Burma. Occasionally the seals of rings are made of fine
sapphires, emeralds, or rubies, and sell for from $1,000 to $10,000, or
even more.
Seal rings were extensively worn in the period from about 1865 to 1885.
Frequently these had absolutely nothing engraved upon them. The setting
was often an oblong, rectangular onyx, sometimes one inch or one and a
quarter inches long. Occasionally upon this was inset a rose diamond
initial; or else the initial was cut upon the stone--when the onyx was
black on top--rarely a crest. In many cases the stone was white above
and pink below, a sardonyx, and the initial was cut through the light
layer. Or else it was white or pale gray on a black ground. The general
effect was thus gray, the gem being of the type known as nicolo.
Then came the cameo rings, with designs either black on white or brown
on white, sardonyx; or white on green, chrysonyx. Later again taste
developed for intaglio rings. In this instance, instead of stones of a
brownish or whitish gray,--chalcedony,--those of a pale brown or a dark
brown were chosen and these were called sard. Because of the brown hue,
the term onyx was also applied to them. This must not be confused with
the antique sard which resulted from burning a stone of a different
hue, as in the case of the antique carnelian also. The translucent or
opaque varieties, with rich red or dark brown top, were called sard,
whereas the paler translucent and almost transparent varieties,--when
pale red, yellowish red or almost yellow,--were called carnelian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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