Rings for the finger : $b from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archæology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.Kunz, George Frederick
History
Rings for the finger : $b from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archæology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.
Kunz, George Frederick
Rings; Rings -- Folklore
The die is placed on the stand of the drop press, the upperweight
strikes it and forces the metal into it; this requires from four or
five to seven or eight operations. Each time the metal is struck it is
annealed, then restruck and again annealed, until the ring is ready
for trimming. This trimming removes all the superfluous metal, and the
ring is then in condition for the jeweller to bend it into a complete
circle.
In the manufacture of many rings, the metal first receives a special
form. The gold plates are blanked and rolled to a definite thickness
according to the pattern of the ring desired, the width being
controlled by screws attached to the rolls themselves. To obtain the
exact width, the measure in which it is placed can be adjusted to cut a
strip of metal from a millimeter, or thinner, up to several inches in
width. It is slid over a roll and two wheels with sharp edges separate
the mass of gold into exactly the desired widths. The gauges are so
exact as in one instance to provide 16 variations to a millimeter,
approximately 1/25 of an inch. Another screw gauge is so delicate that
it can be adjusted to the four-thousandth of an inch.
Each piece is then put in a cutter exactly the outline of the
desired piece, which, for a ring, is usually quite flat. The piece
of metal then drops into a cutting box and a number can be struck
out successively by simply raising the press and allowing the cutter
to come down. The metal is now placed in another roll, which, in
the case of the signet ring, rolls the sides thinner than the head.
When this process is completed the product is put in a gauge measure
which measures the length of the ring from 0.4 to size 13, on Allen’s
standard gauge. The ends of the metal are then cut off so that the
ring is approximately the desired size, and the ends are annealed or
soldered without any further operation.
[Illustration: PRODUCTION OF RINGS WITH PRECIOUS STONE SETTINGS
BY MEANS OF MACHINERY
1, original blank struck from plate of metal. 2, same raised,
with claws pointing upward. 3, same reduced. 4, first strike of a
one-piece ring. 5, second operation. 6, third operation. 7, 8, 9,
10, 11, 12, 13, successive stages in the manufacture of a gallery
for the ring]
[Illustration:
SUCCESSIVE STAGES IN THE FORMATION OF A RING (MACHINE MADE) FROM
THE SHAPED, BENT, UNORNAMENTED BAR TO THE FINISHED RING]
In most cases when striking a signet-ring, the top is not cut out
entirely. The gold backing of the stone is left, and the head of the
ring is struck with a concave space so that when the two sides are
brought down the space will remain flat. For transparent stones, the
top is cut out of the setting entirely. When the rings are finally
completed they are cleaned by what is known as a stripping wheel,
the reverse of a plating wheel, which removes all the fire-markings,
and all the other impurities that exist, leaving the metal clean.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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