From the Grisons they passed into Venetian territory and the vast and
delicious plains of Lombardy, through Bergamo, Brescia, Verona, Vincenza
and Padua, to Venice, Bologna, Ferrara and Florence. They were very
young; and their “peregrination” must not be compared in the matter
of sightseeing and adventure with John Evelyn’s tour taken over much
the same ground—only the reverse way—a year or two later. At Florence
they sold their horses, and settled down for the winter of 1641-2; and
there they resumed their lessons, Italian chiefly and “modern history”;
and Robyn read the _Lives of the Old Philosophers_, and became so
enamoured of the Stoics that he insisted on “enduring a long fit of the
toothache with great unconcernedness.”[91] In all his journeys, he had
carried his pet books with him. Frank laughed at his younger brother’s
inveterate habit of reading as he walked—“if they were upon the road, and
walking down a hill, or in a rough way, he would read all the way; and
when they came at night to their inn, he would still be studying till
supper, and frequently propose such difficulties as he met with, to his
governour.”[92]
While they were wintering at Florence, Galileo died “within a league of
it.” They never saw him; but they read and heard a great deal about the
“paradoxes of the great Star Gazer”; and Robert carried away with him
from Italy an undying memory of the attitude of the Romish Church to
scientific discovery. Galileo’s paradoxes had been “confuted” by a decree
from Rome, “perhaps because they could not be so otherwise”; and the Pope
had shown himself “loth to have the stability of that earth questioned,
in which he had established his kingdom.” It was in Florence that Robert
Boyle heard the story told of the friars who reproached Galileo with his
blindness, telling him it was “a just punishment of heaven”, and of the
sightless astronomer’s memorable answer: “He had the satisfaction of not
being blind till he had seen in heaven what never mortal eyes beheld
before.” In Florence, Marcombes and his pupils lodged in the same house
with some “Jewish Rabbins,” from whom Robyn learned a great deal about
pre-Christian “arguments and tenets.” Frank, perhaps, was more interested
in the carnaval, and the ducal tilts, and the gentlemen’s balls, to which
both the brothers were invited. And Marcombes took good care of the
Earl’s “jewells”, though they were allowed to look open-eyed upon all
the vice, as well as the splendour, of seventeenth-century Italy: “the
impudent nakedness of vice” Robert called it then and afterwards. He had
never found, he used to say, “any such sermons against the things he then
saw as they were against themselves.”[93]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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