In March 1642 they were in Rome, where it was thought safest for
Robert to pass for a Frenchman. English Protestants were at the moment
especially unpopular, and Master Robyn was less willing than his brother
Frank to “do at Rome as the Romans do.” Rome itself indeed seems to have
disappointed the young Puritan. After all his studies in Latin history
and literature, it was a disappointment to find Rome dominated, not
by victorious legions, but by what he called “present superstition.”
He found Modern Popes where the Ancient Cæsars should have been, and
“Barberine bees flying as high as did the Roman Eagle.” It was a
come-down, certainly; but the little party did a good deal of sightseeing
of the simple kind; and they saw the Pope and his Cardinals in chapel,
and Robyn’s observant eyes watched a young churchman after the service
“upon his knees carefully with his feet sweep into his handkerchief” the
dust that had been consecrated by his Holiness’s feet. Robert Boyle did
not gather up any dust; but he obtained and read the Latin and Tuscan
poems written by this same Pope. “A poet he was,” was Robyn’s verdict of
Pope Urban VIII; a poet—and some other things besides.
To escape the heat of Rome they returned to Florence, by Perugia and
Pistoia, and thence by the river Arno to Pisa and Livorno. From Livorno
they coasted in a felucca, drawing up their boat on shore every night
and sleeping in some Mediterranean townlet, to Genoa; and so, travelling
by slow degrees, by Monaco, Mentone, Nice and Antibes, they reached
Marseilles in May 1642.
At Marseilles, they expected to find letters from the Earl of Cork,
and bills of exchange to carry them on to Paris. Hitherto, though
difficulties of transit had now and then arisen, their quarterly
allowance had been punctually sent. The Earl had allowed them £500 a year
in Geneva, and £1000 a year while they were in Italy; and the money had
always come to hand, thanks to the combined activities of Mr. Perkins
the tailor, Mr. Philip Burlamachy, a certain Mr. Castell, “merchant
stranger,” who travelled between England and Geneva, and, last but not
least, Mr. Diodato Diodati, the Genevan banker. Once or twice while they
were in Italy letters had come from home, and they knew vaguely that
sinister things had been happening there. And Frank and Betty wrote
to each other: Betty was begging Frank to come back to her, and even
threatening to come to him; and so terror-struck was Marcombes at the
bare suggestion that he was looking “very narrowly” after poor Frank. He
had of late been keeping Frank very short of money, lest he might do “I
doe not kgnow what.”
And then at Marseilles, even while they were idly waiting for their bills
of exchange and watching the French King’s galleys put to sea with about
two thousand slaves tugging at the oars, there came to Francis and Robyn,
and to Marcombes too, for that matter, a rude awakening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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