I had a guide with me, who showed me over the cathedral of Citta
Vecchia, and then asked if I wanted to see the catacombs. I had never
before heard of them, but replied in the affirmative; whereupon he
led the way through a narrow street, till he came to a door, at which
he thumped lustily. It was opened by a little tawny-faced fellow in
a monk’s dress. He bustled about and got a bunch of keys, and some
torches and candles. We each took a torch and candle, and followed him
through a series of long narrow lanes, till we came to a great gate
in a wall. Here we struck fire, lighted our torches and candles, and
entered the passage. It looked dark and dismal, and we continued going
down long flights of steps till we came to a sort of landing-place at
a great distance below the surface. I know not how to describe the
scene that I witnessed here. For miles around, there was a labyrinthian
extent of dark passages cut in the rock, winding and zigzagging in
all directions; sometimes expanding into the breadth and loftiness of
spacious halls, and sometimes contracting into a strait so narrow as
hardly to admit a single person.
Along the sides of these galleries were innumerable niches and recesses
cut in the rock as places of deposit for corpses; they were probably
all full, thousands of years ago. Here and there we found a solitary
bone, which I gazed at with feelings of awe as the relic of an ancient
generation. The place appeared to me like a great subterranean city
whose inhabitants had all deserted it. The age of it is unknown; not
even tradition can tell it. It was used as a hiding-place by the early
Christians during times of persecution, and must have been found
admirably suited to that purpose: thousands and thousands of people
might conceal themselves beyond all search in its immense extent of
winding and perplexing avenues, which run into one another, and would
lead any one astray who was not perfectly familiar with all their
turnings and windings.
In one of the large halls we found two ancient hand-mills for corn and
oil, which had been used by the inhabitants of this dark abode. Every
passage and room is full of secret nooks and openings, into which the
inmates might creep for safety in case of surprise. Great numbers of
names and inscriptions are cut in all parts of the rock; and the sides
and ceiling of the narrow galleries are blackened with the smoke of
torches. Strange and overpowering were the sensations that came upon me
as I followed my guide through these drear avenues and halls of death.
In spite of my confidence in him, it was impossible not to feel an
apprehension of being lost among the innumerable turnings and windings
of this dark labyrinth. Now and then we would stop and contemplate the
striking effect of our flickering torches, which threw red gleams of
light along the walls, and seemed to show us indistinct forms flitting
hither and thither amid the darkness beyond.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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