My guide, who had been snuffing the air and stretching his vision in
every direction for the last quarter of an hour, now assured me that
a snow-storm was coming, and advised an immediate return down the
mountain. I was not disposed to comply, as I had heard that these
people are very ready to discourage travellers at the least appearance
of any danger, because they are unwilling to encounter the cold of the
upper regions. I told him to push on, and never mind the wind, which
was now blowing in violent gusts. But in a few minutes, large flakes
of snow began to fall, and soon the whole air was obscured. The mules
showed some reluctance to proceed, and we had much ado to urge them
onward. The guide kept talking of the dangers of our undertaking, and
told a story of an Englishman who was lost here about six weeks before
in a snow-storm, just like the one that was now raging. It seems he
was going up the mountain with two others of his countrymen, and being
overtaken by the snow, they strayed from the path, and got into a great
plain, full of deep pools of water, covered with a thin crust of ice.
In attempting to cross one of these, they broke through, and one of the
travellers was drowned, the rest escaping with difficulty after losing
all their baggage. This melancholy catastrophe called forth all the
sympathies of my companion, who related the circumstances with many
mournful ejaculations and shakes of the head, assuring me that he was a
_bel giovanotto_, or fine young fellow.
As I had never heard a syllable of this story at Catania in all my
inquiries respecting the mountain, I guessed at once that the fellow
had made it up out of his own head, to scare me from my undertaking.
I asked him if he was sure the story was true. He protested that it
was true, every word, and there could be no doubt of it, for he had
seen the very mule which the drowned man rode, no longer ago than last
Friday, trotting through the Corso of Catania. He was a long-backed
beast, dark red, mixed with iron gray; and if that was not the dead
Englishman’s mule, whose mule was it? I could not help laughing in his
face at this odd proof of the story. He was a good deal disconcerted
to see me so much amused instead of being frightened, and jogged on
without telling any more tales of the misfortunes of travellers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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