breeze, so that we considered ourselves out of danger, and stood on our
course.
About a week after this, just as I had waked in the morning, I was
aroused by the cry of “Land!” I ran upon deck, and saw what no
man can see for the first time without feelings of indescribable
enthusiasm--the shores of the old world! We were directly abreast of
the straits of Gibraltar. Europe and Africa lay before me, and the
sun was rising behind the lofty ridge of the Atlas mountains. Were I
to live a thousand years, I should never forget this moment, nor the
overpowering emotions that took possession of me at the sight. Few
prospects in the world can be more imposing. The stern and craggy
cliffs of the Spanish coast; the towering wood-crowned peaks of the
African mountains; the noble strait that separates these two famous
quarters of the globe; and the grand and interesting historical
recollections connected with the spot--all combine to fill the mind of
the spectator with the most thrilling emotions. Long did I gaze on the
noble scene without the power to utter a word, as the sun broke from
the mass of rich blue clouds that hung round the head of Mount Atlas,
and poured his golden light on the shaggy masses of forest in Africa
and the rugged and frowning cliffs of Spain. To see such a prospect
once is an epoch in a man’s life; the vivid and overpowering feelings
of the moment are never to be experienced a second time.
As we sailed up the strait, I had leisure to view the shore on both
sides by the help of a telescope. The Spanish coast is rocky, and
generally barren, but in many spots I was able to discern little
patches of green cultivation, scattered about in the valleys between
the dark rock. The African shore is almost entirely covered with woods
up to the mountain-tops. Here and there I could see a wreath of white
smoke slowly curling upward from the thick woods. These were made by
the Moors, who were stripping the cork trees of their bark. Farther up
the strait, we came in sight of the famous fortress of Gibraltar. It
is an enormous rock, connected with the Spanish shore by a low, flat
beach. The rock is cut and tunnelled into immensely long caverns and
galleries, with embrasures for cannon, and is fortified in every part
so strongly as to be considered impregnable. It was taken from the
Spaniards by the English, more than a century ago, but at that time it
was very poorly fortified. The English, finding it so well situated
for guarding the entrance of the strait, expended vast sums of money in
strengthening it, and would never give it up to the Spaniards. It has
sustained many hard sieges since that period, but has hitherto resisted
every attack. There is always a strong garrison of troops kept here,
and the harbor is a regular station for ships of war. A considerable
town has grown up near the rock, and a good deal of trade is carried
on by the merchants of Gibraltar. Vessels from all the Mediterranean
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